This is topic Soon to be New SM owner has a few questions in forum Spec Miata at Spec Miata Community.


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Posted by iambhooper (Member # 25235) on :
 
Howdy! I'm new to this forum, and new to Spec Miata, but not new to racing (some of you will have recognized me as an ITC/B CRX driver from the North Carolina region).

I'm picking up a Spec Miata this week, and would like to have it ready for the Double SARRC/MARRS at VIR in a month.

The car is a 1.6 and hasn't been on the track in a few years. I know it needs brakes, tires, fluids and updated harness's. ButI as I'm new I to the Cult, I have some questions:

1)What weight of oil, and fill level should I run?
2)Filter?
3)Diff fluid?
4)Tranny fluid?
5)Plug's and gaps?
6)Base alignment specs to check for?
7)It needs new tires, who has the best price on the Toyo's, and at what depth should they be shaved?
8)Brake's, who has the best price on Blue's? Anyone have any experience with Raybestos compounds?

Even though there is 3 weekend's between now and the May race, I only have a few evenings I will be able to give, so I need to worry about the basics first, so I can maximize time on the track.

Thanks a bunch and see you on the track!
hoop
 
Posted by Gatoratty (Member # 15983) on :
 
Welcome! Use the search function and you will find many different answers to all of your questions. Here is what I use:

Mobil 1 10-30w
Mazda oil fiter
Hawk DTC-60 front DTC-30 rears
Redline MTL in the tranny
Amsoil severe gear oil in diff
Bosch plugs factory gap
see JD's setup guide for alignment (sep thread)
4/32 shave from Appalachian at the track

Hope that helps!
 
Posted by Todd Greene (Member # 16630) on :
 
Welcome...

I remeber you for the ImprovedTouring site.
I am new to SM myself. I had an ITC CRX also.

You are going to enjoy the all HP and Torque of the Miata.

Many drivers here consider the Miata a momentum car. They have never driven a carbed CRX. In comparison, the Miata is a monster. [Big Grin]

Todd
 
Posted by iambhooper (Member # 25235) on :
 
Thanks guys! Yes, I'm familiar with the search features, however unless you know what you are looking for you will find bazillions of answers!

4/32 shave... would that be more like an intermediate? it's been a long time since I've delt w shaved tires, refresh my memory.. is 4/32 a tighter shave that 2/32?

thanks!
hoop

p.s.
Todd, i left the carbed misory behind a couple of years back, and upgraded to fuel injection... throttle response is nice!
 
Posted by B Wilson (Member # 606) on :
 
4/32 is a budget shave. 3/32 is a value (but can win) shave, and 2/32 (almost bald) is win at all cost shave.

-b
 
Posted by iambhooper (Member # 25235) on :
 
so 2/32 is going to be more like the 710's i was using in ITB? but yet if i wanted to buy 1 set of tires for the first weekend, 4/32's would likely get me through everything but the standing water rainstorms?
 
Posted by Todd Greene (Member # 16630) on :
 
4/32 will have 4 grooves, but no tread at all.
(Like the DOT Hoosier or Hankook.)

Todd
 
Posted by jwarren (Member # 3749) on :
 
also, if this car hasn't been run in a few years, you may want to double check all of its features to make sure that it complies with the 2010 GCR.
 
Posted by iambhooper (Member # 25235) on :
 
the cage looks great on it... i don't think there is any issue's with that (double door bars on both sides!) other than that, and knowing what i "do" know, other than a plung cut on the head, and 99 top hats on the suspension, there is much "wrong" with the car.

a good servicing, checking torque, fluid's, brake's ect. should suffice for my first weekend. i'm not expecting wins in my first race with a RWD car, that hasn't been run in a while!

as for Mazdacomp... how long does it actually take to get a response from them? 2 or 3 weeks ago, b4 i found this car, i signed up... sent pics of a car i do own (as a build) and a copy of my SCCA membership car, and received NO response! typical?

hoop
 
Posted by Gatoratty (Member # 15983) on :
 
Call them and they will take care of you that day!
 
Posted by Wreckerboy (Member # 797) on :
 
Sadly, non-response for email is par for the course there. It's the only flaw in otherwise exemplary customer service, and it's caused be sheer volume and lack of manpower. Call them directly as suggested and it will be done in a matter of moments.

I have a little experience with the Raybestos stuff - ran them last year at the suggestion of teh Boo Hee who loved them on his 1.6 ITA car. Nice pads, a little "soft" feeling and easy to modulate to a point. Ultimately did not feel as grippy as the C-techs, which is what I went back to this year. Not a Hawk fan - never got used to the digital on/off feeling and my inability to modulate them. Others rave about 'em, so YMMV.
 
Posted by iambhooper (Member # 25235) on :
 
interesting... the first pair of pads i bought for the ITC car were Carbotechs... got 1 race out of them! i switched to Raybestos and got 13 weekends out of 2 pair. couldn't buy them for a bit, and in fairness to another NC based business, bought a set of Ctecs... they lasted 1 race! they replaced them, and I got 1 race out of that set.

so, 16-18 race weekends, 3 sets of Carbotech's, 2 set of Raybestos.

hoop
 
Posted by iambhooper (Member # 25235) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Gatoratty:

Mobil 1 10-30w

how much? to the bottom line on the dip stick?
quote:
see JD's setup guide for alignment (sep thread)[/QB]
I looked for "JD's Setup", and found a lot of listings. Are we talking about the one dated 2/17/2009?

Also, what rpm range do I wan't to shoot for to shift?

As for the Toyo's, what cold pressure and hot pressures do I want to be at?

Where's the best place, or cheapest, to buy rotor's and Hawk pads?

Thanks!
hoop
 
Posted by Blix (Member # 203) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Todd Greene:


You are going to enjoy the all HP and Torque of the Miata.


Todd

That is, without a doubt, by far the BEST thing I've read on the internet in ages. I NEVER thought I'd see the day when someone said that about an SM . I'm buying a lottery ticket now.
 
Posted by Todd Greene (Member # 16630) on :
 
Originally posted by Blix:
/QUOTE]That is, without a doubt, by far the BEST thing I've read on the internet in ages. I NEVER thought I'd see the day when someone said that about an SM . I'm buying a lottery ticket no[/QUOTE]

You would have to have been there to understand and appreciate.

It's funny, but true...someone on the IT forums had the signature line:
"My lug wrench has more torque than a Honda"
 
Posted by iambhooper (Member # 25235) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Blix:
That is, without a doubt, by far the BEST thing I've read on the internet in ages. I NEVER thought I'd see the day when someone said that about an SM . I'm buying a lottery ticket now.

my carbed ITC crx produced numbers something like 67 HP... I was all happy when I converted it over to fuel injection and got Dyno numbers of 96 HP and 99 tq!

hoop
 
Posted by Dan Tiley (Member # 3601) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by iambhooper:
interesting... the first pair of pads i bought for the ITC car were Carbotechs... got 1 race out of them! i switched to Raybestos and got 13 weekends out of 2 pair. couldn't buy them for a bit, and in fairness to another NC based business, bought a set of Ctecs... they lasted 1 race! they replaced them, and I got 1 race out of that set.

so, 16-18 race weekends, 3 sets of Carbotech's, 2 set of Raybestos.

hoop

The beauty of dealing with Carbotech is that the company is run by SCCA/NASA racers. They completely understand the specifics of our racing environment, and for you, they're right in your backyard. I'd give Danny Puskar at Carbotech a call (877) 899-5024 and tell him your experience with your Honda. He'll appreciate the feedback.

For what it's worth, I've run Carbotechs for about 3 years now, and I get about 4-5 weekends out of them (including Friday test days), with no fade and great pedal modulation throughout their entire life. Most people run the XP10 fronts and XP8 rears.
 
Posted by Charlie Williams (Member # 1640) on :
 
Howdy Hoop,

Try 30-31 PSI cold for starters. Max 38 hot. I found that around 36 hot is great. Others have different opinions. Stagger the pressures for the track you are at, as you probably know.

Go to Windsor Custom for cheap rotors. He also sells pads. Meathead and RP performance also have stuff. They all have websites. They are WDC region companies. You have a couple of good ones down there.

You can also get cheap rotors at some of the auto parts companies on line. I am talking $25 and less.

I like the Carbotechs and the primary line that Chris Windsor uses and sells (dont remember the name). I had excellent life and controllable braking with the carbotechs. Hated the Hawks, they made my rear end come around front too many times, until I adjusted them.

The WDC guys will be at VIR. They are all great guys to work with.
 
Posted by Phil Mather (Member # 180) on :
 
I had a problem with the Carbotechs initially as well. You have to follow their bed-in procedure exactly. Once they are bedded, they are amazing brake pads! If you don't bed them, they will wear quick.
 
Posted by Keith in WA (Member # 16099) on :
 
People seem to go both ways on that. Some say that Carbos need to be bedded exactly per the instructions. Others say it doesn't make much difference. They do sell pre-bedded rotors now.

Last time I did a Skippy school, they rotated us through a bunch of cars to bed the rotors and get the stickers off the tires for the upcoming race weekend. For Hawks, they had us start at about 50% and then gradually increase speed for about 4 laps at which point flog them as usual.
 
Posted by iambhooper (Member # 25235) on :
 
The car was picked up today, and I went by the shop to check it out a bit more. The brake issue has been solved, as it came with an unused set of Blues/Blacks... nice surprise! Also, the harness doesn't expire until years end!

So, that's $500 I don't have to spend in the next 3 weeks! [Big Grin]

After looking at it on the lift.. shouldn't it have some cross bracing in the back and front? Seems like it only had 1 brace in the back.