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Author Topic: Block Dismantling
Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
Posts: 2000
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I have my block almost completely stripped and ready to go to the machine shop. There are 3 bits left to remove. There's a brass plug in the front and back of the block (0221-10-327 PLUG) and one in the top at the head mating surface (B366-10-305 PLUG). I'm going to have the block hot tanked while I'm at it to get all the crud out. Leave the plugs in and don't worry about it or is there a method to pull them out better than a drill and bolt extractor?

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Greg Bush Verified Driver
Thread Killer

Region: NW/OR
Car #: 04
Year : 90
Posts: 1765
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Let the machine shop do it. It will cost $2 and take them no time at all.

Gibscreen Verified Driver Series Champ
Member

Region: NASA-SoCal
Car #: 23
Year : 1995
Posts: 912
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And DEFINITELY pull those plugs, whether you do it or the machine shop does it. You should replace them with new plugs. On our first engine rebuild, we didn't pull ours and our machinist assumed we were going to replace them. Massive oil leaks and an engine pull and 2 transmission pulls later and we figured out the problem when the rear plug literally fell out of the back of the block.

After you hot tank the block, the brass plugs contract more than the iron block when cooling. We learned this the VERY hard way, but hey, we learned it.

And even better than just putting in new plugs would be to tap the hole and put a threaded plug in, but that would probably fall outside the rules.

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Rob Gibson
RJ Racing
2010 NASA Nationals TTE Champion
2008/2009 WERC Champion
2007 NASA SoCal SM Champion
rjracing.net
Weekend-Racer.com

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
Posts: 2000
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Perfect, thanks!

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

pat.ross
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Region: SOW
Car #: 70
Year : 1991
Posts: 21
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Keith,

When you have the head machined be sure that the shop removes the allen head plugs from the head oil passages and cleans them (there are 6). We made a major mistake when the shop pulled the plugs but failed to reinstall or return them to us. I overlooked them and we installed the head. When we started the engine oil spewed all over in 6 different directions. We were lucky that we could remove the plugs from the head we just removed (the plugs are Brittish Pipe Thread) and were able to get the engine running for the next day's races.

Pat

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
Posts: 2000
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One other quick question...

I tore down the original oil pump and the pressure relief valve spring is too short and the valve is sticky so I'm not using that one. I have one with very low miles but that motor holed the block and oil pan. Throw that oil pump out too out of general principals, suck it up buy a new one?

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Gibscreen Verified Driver Series Champ
Member

Region: NASA-SoCal
Car #: 23
Year : 1995
Posts: 912
Status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Keith in WA:
One other quick question...

I tore down the original oil pump and the pressure relief valve spring is too short and the valve is sticky so I'm not using that one. I have one with very low miles but that motor holed the block and oil pan. Throw that oil pump out too out of general principals, suck it up buy a new one?

Yes. Get one from MazdaComp. Trust me on this.

--------------------
Rob Gibson
RJ Racing
2010 NASA Nationals TTE Champion
2008/2009 WERC Champion
2007 NASA SoCal SM Champion
rjracing.net
Weekend-Racer.com

wheel Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Region: kc
Car #: 20
Year : 92
Posts: 1801
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+1 ^

iambhooper
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Region: NCR
Car #: NA
SMIM: NA
Posts: 125
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buying a new pump is the best option. on my IC Honda, the pump's were no longer available, so I had to clean and flush the one I had (after the block was ventilated) before the rebuild.

hoop

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hoop
'91 Spec Miata
'90 NA Beater/Track Day car
'06 RSX Type S

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
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It was interesting tearing it down. The 135k mile old gears were in excellent shape so at first I thought it was perfectly usable. The pressure relief valve was another story. The piston itself had signs of significant wear in addition to the shortened spring. It doesn't seem like it would take much to bugger that piston so I'll just assume there was enough shrapnel in the other engine that some was sucked through that oil pump too.

BTW- When you pull out the cotter pin that spring can shoot a hell of a long way. [blush]

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
Posts: 2000
Status: Offline
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Anyone have anything good bad or neutral to say about Beck Arnley rings? I have everything else en route but Mazda is backordered on 1.8 rings.

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Mark Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Year : 1990
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Keith,

Did you call Mazda Comp to check eta? They had a bunch coming into customs a week or so back with more on the way. I received some 1.8 rings Monday that were back ordered but only for about 1 week.

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Mark
http://www.ironcanyonmotorsports.com

Frank Todaro
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Region: Ohio Valley Region
Car #: 35
Year : 1999
Posts: 170
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Keith not to hijack your thread, but i will. I called recently to check on the price of a crate motor because the old #35 needs a power plant soon. What is the math on a rebuild vs. crate motor if your going to go all stock anyway. crate motor is 2700 plus tax. that sounds hard to beat for the money and for just having to pull and replace?

--------------------
Frank
Member: No Pain Racing

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
Posts: 2000
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I thought about that.

I have a really nice head that was making the best power I've ever known so it wasn't going to be bone stock. If the inspection goes well I sure hope to keep that head. I know people who've had great crate engines and people who haven't I checked the tollerances on everything and the original bottom end to my car was in really good shape. The crankshaft spun so smoothly I debated keeping the bearings. I may wind up kicking myself later for not using this bottom end for a really nice build.

I would guess that when you add up the parts plus the labor, to do a full up rebuild of the bottom end, it costs about half as much as buying a crate bottom end, provided you do most of the work yourself and start with good condition parts. Probably on the order of $1k including a new oil pump. I doubt less than $700 unless you get ebay $100 rebuild kits.

Based on the condition of my bottom end, the machine work wasn't very expensive. A local mom and pop machine shop that specializes in head work charges $50 an hour. They do good work and are nice folks. For $209 and change including tax they did the following...

- Remove galley plugs
- Stick the screw in plugs I forgot to remove in a bag.
- Hot tank the block
- Magnaflux the block
- Resurfaced the deck (required very very little material removal and they did it to match the deck hight of my expensive but perforated motor)
- Deglazed the cylinders
- It also looks like they resurfaced the oil pan mating surface which I didn't ask for.

I dropped it off Monday and picked it up Tuesday before they closed. Nice folks. They knew I wanted to have it in this weekend.

The whole slew of parts from Mazda was more expensive.

Bearings, and rings were the most expensive. Roughly $250. Hard to say on gaskets and seals. I have a big tuperware tin that had things in it like a new rear main, oil pump seal, oil pan seal, more thermostat gaskets than I can probably ever use... Getting a full set of Mazda gaskets to replace every bit of rubber in the engine top and bottom will cost you a couple hundred. I already had about half that needed to be replaced for the bottom end and don't care about replacing ones like for the plastic cam pulley covers.

There's about another $50 or so when you add up the about 10 copper washers, dowel pins, galley plugs, freeze plugs and other crap. The gray silicone RTV that comes in stock engines is $20 a tube. [Confused] Don't forget other stuff you may not have like ring compressor, ring installation tool, assembly lube, large box of band aids due to many sharp edges...

Oh...and $6 in aluminum colored high temp engine paint. Groovy! [Smile]

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

   

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