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Author Topic: New front hubs - repack?
Teamfour Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Car #: 04
Year : 1993
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I have new front hubs on the way from Mazda. I will be repacking the old ones with redline as spares. Would it be worthwhile/advantageous to repack the new ones as well before installing?

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Lee Tilton
1993 Meowta #04
Brimtek Motorsports/ Team Four Racing
Team Four Racing

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

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I did the same thing...installed new but re-greased and rebuilt the old ones for spares. Regrease one then compare the two...you'll get a s-eating grin. [yep]

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Brian Ghidinelli Verified Driver
Moonwalker

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I rebuilt my new hubs before installing them. Doesn't take long and helps guarantee they last.

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MotorsportReg.com / Haag Performance / Team SafeRacer
2010 San Francisco Region SMT Champion

Teamfour Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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I disassembled the old hubs last night. They had been packed with the OEM grease. Actually, there was no grease left! I will definitely be repacking the new hubs with Redline before install.

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Lee Tilton
1993 Meowta #04
Brimtek Motorsports/ Team Four Racing
Team Four Racing

davew Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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I always repack new hubs

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Advanced Autosports, The Midwests leader in Spec Miata Service, Parts and Rentals
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CP Verified Driver
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Even the Redline stuff turns kinda grey and shrinks after a few races. I've repacked my hubs 3-4 times this season (after every rain race) and the old grease always looks tired when I wipe it out.

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-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA
http://www.speedshackonline.com

dtfastbear Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
faster than the average bear...

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Speed secret - Swepco 101

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NASA Nor Cal SM series Director
www.molaps.com

Winner - Ford Racing Mustang Challenge Driver Shootout

Evil Genius Racing / Race Engineering / Stewart Development

Muda Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
ComingToAMirrorNearYou

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quote:
Originally posted by dtfastbear:
Speed secret - Swepco 101

[thumbsup] ...and it doesn't turn grey. [Wink]

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Muda Motorsports
"We're all here 'cause we're not all there."

FastM3 Verified Driver
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Has anyone found the magic of a replacement hub seal. I did some investigation on line dimension wise and the CR 16512 seems to match. Not sure if it has the correct seal shape. I am more interested in the previous seal design (not the one with the flange built in).

Anyone?

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Phil
Silver 38 SM/ITA

benauto
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Phil, All you have to do is bring good quality beer to the LTD compound ! Donate to the Big screen TV fund and we will give out these secrets [Smile]

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LTD Racing- Stuntman
"Blue Plate Specials"

FastM3 Verified Driver
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I am there ! You Blue Platers are too gracious. I like the idea of the beer. It is going on the race prep list.
Hope to see you guys soon.

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Phil
Silver 38 SM/ITA

Brandon F. Verified Driver
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quote:
Originally posted by FastM3:
I am there ! You Blue Platers are too gracious. I like the idea of the beer. It is going on the race prep list.
Hope to see you guys soon.

Wait - you DON'T have that on your list by default?!

[Wink]

Next time I make an NER race be sure to come find me...I usually have a couple of six packs worth of an eclectic mix of odd brews.

See ya 'round!
Brandon
#48 SSM

CP Verified Driver
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Phlash: what's wrong with your seals? I've been repacking hubs for the last two years (2 sets) after every rain weekend and have not had any issues. But people have been hitting me all season so I'm going to replace them all this winter with new hubs. The Good Dentist cooked a hub last time we were at NHMS and can tell you what the immediate symptoms were. We thought it was cooked brakes when he brought it in...

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-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA
http://www.speedshackonline.com

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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I don't know about him, but I have trouble getting the seals out without denting them or the ball retainer out without cracking it. If they were cheap and readily available I'd say screw it, brute force em out and be done with it rather than curse up and down trying to finesse them out.

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Brandon F. Verified Driver
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Has anyone noticed a difference in the plastic retainer between "versions"?

I have my old pair of front hubs I took off (bought 4 new ones; repacked all 4, leaves me with 2 good & new spares) but was considering saving the miscellaneous bits from inside if they were similar.

Obviously the balls wouldn't be saved if there was significant spalling (that the right word?) but figured with as fragile as the retainers were, keeping those might be a good idea.

CP Verified Driver
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Slowly tap the seals out with a small flathead screwdriver. They don't really need to come out though, as you can get most of the old lube out of there with paper towels and Q-tips.

--------------------
-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA
http://www.speedshackonline.com

FastM3 Verified Driver
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I leave the seals in place just to be sure I don't mess them up. I took a recently took one hub off after WGI and Monticello just to check if the little guy was OK.

It was the new type (Miata supplied) hub with the flange as part of the inner bearing. Anyway the seal is kind of a V with another outside face to lay against the flange.
Part of one side of the V was collapsed so I would like to replace it.

I re-lubed it with Red Line and assembled it with the same seal for now.
So I do not know if I damaged it when reassembling it after the first greasing. (it was a new hub before WGI).

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Phil
Silver 38 SM/ITA

SCCA_Racer
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Does anybody know the part number for the front hub seal on the backside? I assumed I could order them through Mazda but I do not see it listed in the parts for front hubs.
Also is the any trick on getting the outer race to go back into the hub? Right now I have the balls snapped into the retainer but the out race does not seal to want to go in. Any ideas?

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Joshua Fine
SCCA member 323214 since 2003
Novice Permit in 2010
Racing 2011

Brandon F. Verified Driver
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No idea on the seal (if you find it, let me know too! [Smile] ) but as far as reassembly, retainer goes in first, then you add the balls.

Does that sound dirty at all?

davew Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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The seals are not available anywhere. Many of us have tried. I went so far as to contact a company that makes custom seals. We are just too small of a quantity. 1000 seals would have cost $13 each, they really wanted me to buy 10,000

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Advanced Autosports, The Midwests leader in Spec Miata Service, Parts and Rentals
608-313-1230
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www.advanced-autosports.com

Brandon F. Verified Driver
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So where does that leave us guys wanting "new" seals? Yanking hubs off of junkyard cars, taking whatever parts of the hub that are still good?

Seal, retainer, balls....

d mathias Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Seals may be purchased new from MazdaSpeed. They're a little expensive, but they do come with a new hub attached.

NER88 Verified Driver
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I save all the good bits from old bearings. At some point I won't repack them anymore.
That seal is really keeping stuff out not keepn gease in!

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Jerry

Brandon F. Verified Driver
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quote:
Originally posted by d mathias:
Seals may be purchased new from MazdaSpeed. They're a little expensive, but they do come with a new hub attached.

Ah yes, the whole lemonade out of lemons approach...

Thanks for the levity Mr. Mathias...

SCCA_Racer
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Ok, I called Mazda just incase they decided to change their mind and offer that seal, but still no seal offered. Guess I have to dig through my shop trash can to find the old seals I threw away so I can reuse them. So much for having eveything new! I am still having trouble getting the outside race to slip into the hub once the bearings are all snapped into place. I will try an shoot a video showing my problem.

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Joshua Fine
SCCA member 323214 since 2003
Novice Permit in 2010
Racing 2011

Steven Holloway Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Blue Eyes, Aquarius, hates being squeezed to the grass in SowDiv!

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The outer race isn't going to just drop in.

Remember how much force it took to get it out?

Takes that much to get it back in.

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If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's got electrical problems.

SCCA_Racer
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I used the washers and a press, so you are right I will throw it into the press. I just want to make sure I was not going to break anything. [Smile]

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Joshua Fine
SCCA member 323214 since 2003
Novice Permit in 2010
Racing 2011

Brandon F. Verified Driver
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Ah, I understand your issue now Josh.

I've never had to use anything more than a dead-blow hammer, a 29mm socket & 3" extension (only on the outside race) to get the race from either side reinstalled.

Give it a couple of whacks with the socket to seat it, check for flush, then try and rotate it (check for binding).

Steven Holloway Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Blue Eyes, Aquarius, hates being squeezed to the grass in SowDiv!

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Yeah, just whack it lightly with a soft mallet or dead blow. I'd be concerned about over torqueing it with a press.

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If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's got electrical problems.

SCCA_Racer
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Ok, so something like this:

[Smash]
 -

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Joshua Fine
SCCA member 323214 since 2003
Novice Permit in 2010
Racing 2011

Steven Holloway Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Blue Eyes, Aquarius, hates being squeezed to the grass in SowDiv!

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Exactly!

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If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's got electrical problems.

Dave Lewis
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Couldn't find a bigger picture?

d mathias Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Pound to fit, paint to match.

CP Verified Driver
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The races should go back into the hub with minimal tapping from a blunt instrument. Careful not to bungle the seals when doing so.

Interesting fire system for the tires/brakes on that landing gear...

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-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA
http://www.speedshackonline.com

Brandon F. Verified Driver
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Going out on a limb here:
That isn't fire suppression but rather the hydraulic hose connections.

See the pair of hoses "laying" against the strut body? They were disconnected from the blue connectors on that steel bracket.

Not entirely sure what they're attempting to use the BFH on eactactly...that strut would appear to have weight lifted off of it (note the "MAX CAP 30 TONS" on the piece of gear on the far right) so perhaps they're trying to fully extend the strut?

Josh - what the heck are they doing there anyway?!

SCCA_Racer
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The saying I have always heard:
"Cut it to shape...Beat it to fit."

Sorry if the picture was a little big but I could not find a smaller version.

From the website where the picture is located:
"My friends who are in the Air Force should appreciate this news clip that I found - Especially DruU. This picture is published by the US Air Force and was reprinted in a local newspaper. (Click the picture for the full-size version). The photograph details the state of care taken by maintenance personnel to keep our high-precision, military aircraft fully operational. If you can’t read the text, the caption says:

Tech Sgt. Somebody observes as Tech Sgt. SomebodyElse carefully lowers the main landing gear strut on a KC-135 Stratotanker to full extension using a 11.5 pound dead blow hammer…
For those of you who are not familiar with maintenance, if you’re using a sledge hammer, the word “carefully” is probably not the best descriptor available.

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Joshua Fine
SCCA member 323214 since 2003
Novice Permit in 2010
Racing 2011

Brandon F. Verified Driver
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Dayum I'm good!

*struts a bit himself*

Agree totally: sledgehammer and carefully are two words that generally don't belong in a sentence together.

   

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