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Author Topic: 1999 Spec Miata Build Log
dunk
Member

Year : 1999
Posts: 50
Status: Offline
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I'm considering scrapping the idea of building my own ballast system and just buying a premade setup. The one from GP racing looks pretty well put together. For the money, it's almost not worth the time to get all the plate cut.

Anybody have any experience. I need to add about 25 pounds for NASA trim, 60 more than that for SCCA.

Duncan

dunk
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Year : 1999
Posts: 50
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Anybody have any advice on slotting the timing wheel to advance timing? Pictures?

-Duncan

BrianW
Member

Region: SW
Car #: 59
Year : 1999
Posts: 28
Status: Offline
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As far as the ballast system, I made one that is very modular and was pretty easy. I got some 4" wide 1/4" thick steel plate from a local steel supplier, I had them cut a 20' length into 16" pieces. These weight right at 4.5 lbs each. I drilled 2 holes in each pieces, painted them and bolted them to the passenger floor, behind the rear seat mount points. With this system I have room for my fire bottle as well as my cool suit cooler on the passenger side.

With each plate weighting 4.5 lbs each, I can easily add and remove weight as necessary for the different rules and also to accomodate my coolsuit cooler or not.

I can snap a picture tonight if you wish.

Brian Ghidinelli Verified Driver
Moonwalker

Region: SFR
Car #: 12
Year : 99
Posts: 267
Status: Offline
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I posted some drawings you can send to any metal joint for ballast plates in a 99:

http://www.ghidinelli.com/2010/08/09/ballast-plates-for-1999-2005-mazda-spec-miata

In my case I removed the seat mounts because I wanted to put BIG backing plates (I carry ~175lbs of ballast).

--------------------
MotorsportReg.com / Haag Performance / Team SafeRacer
2010 San Francisco Region SMT Champion

tLinder
Member

Region: SW
Car #: 40
Year : 1991
Posts: 49
Status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by BrianW:
As far as the ballast system, I made one that is very modular and was pretty easy. I got some 4" wide 1/4" thick steel plate from a local steel supplier, I had them cut a 20' length into 16" pieces. These weight right at 4.5 lbs each. I drilled 2 holes in each pieces, painted them and bolted them to the passenger floor, behind the rear seat mount points. With this system I have room for my fire bottle as well as my cool suit cooler on the passenger side.

With each plate weighting 4.5 lbs each, I can easily add and remove weight as necessary for the different rules and also to accomodate my coolsuit cooler or not.

I can snap a picture tonight if you wish.

I've seen Brian's ballast set-up, it's NICE! [thumbsup]

Chris Haldeman
Member

Region: texas
Car #: 71,72
Year : 1990,1999
Posts: 166
Status: Offline
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i am sure the set-up looks good but i highly recomend not having it in the car when you get the log book or annual done.from the description it is not compliant with the gcr's requirements of 2 bolts per segment aka plate. this was directed at brian w

John Mueller Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Okay, not the slowest anymore...

Region: SoCal
Car #: 13
Year : 1992
Posts: 847
Status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Brian Ghidinelli:
I posted some drawings you can send to any metal joint for ballast plates in a 99:

In my case I removed the seat mounts because I wanted to put BIG backing plates (I carry ~175lbs of ballast).

Brian;
I did something similar in my 1.6 but your is much cleaner.

Out of curiosity, how much do you all geared-up weigh?

--------------------
Thanks,
John Mueller
NASA SM National Director
http://www.Weekend-Racer.com
#13 "Tiger Miata" - 2009 SoCal SSM Champion

Brian Ghidinelli Verified Driver
Moonwalker

Region: SFR
Car #: 12
Year : 99
Posts: 267
Status: Offline
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John - I weigh 150-155 in race trim. Car is scaled to come in with 1 gallon in the tank.

--------------------
MotorsportReg.com / Haag Performance / Team SafeRacer
2010 San Francisco Region SMT Champion

BrianW
Member

Region: SW
Car #: 59
Year : 1999
Posts: 28
Status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Chris Haldeman:
i am sure the set-up looks good but i highly recomend not having it in the car when you get the log book or annual done.from the description it is not compliant with the gcr's requirements of 2 bolts per segment aka plate. this was directed at brian w

I see the GCR rule... You are saying that if I have 10 plates stacked on top of each other, I would need a total of 20 bolts? even though it is a single stack and there are two bolts passing through the entire stack?

I seem to remember some other modular type system that allowed you to add plates and the total bolt numbers did not equal 2x the number of plates.

Andy Bettencourt Verified Driver
www.flatout-motorsports.com

Region: NER
Car #: 09 ITA
Year : 90, 91, 94 Rentals
Posts: 1109
Status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Chris Haldeman:
i am sure the set-up looks good but i highly recomend not having it in the car when you get the log book or annual done.from the description it is not compliant with the gcr's requirements of 2 bolts per segment aka plate. this was directed at brian w

Each segment does have two bolts running through them.

--------------------
Andy Bettencourt
Flatout Motorsports
www.flatout-motorsports.com

BrianW
Member

Region: SW
Car #: 59
Year : 1999
Posts: 28
Status: Offline
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After re-reading the GCR I do agree that if there 2 bolts running through each piece of ballast on my setup. I read the NASA GCR's and they indicate the following:

"There should be at least one 3/8 diameter bolt for every ten (10) pounds of weight (e.g. 20 pound block uses two bolts)."

So for my 60lb stack I need 6 bolts instead of the 2 that I have? Here are some pics of what I have:

 -

 -

 -

Steven Holloway Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Blue Eyes, Aquarius, hates being squeezed to the grass in SowDiv!

Region: Lonestar
Car #: 97
Year : 91
Posts: 740
Status: Offline
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Double nut it, the tech guys like that.

--------------------
If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's got electrical problems.

Chris Haldeman
Member

Region: texas
Car #: 71,72
Year : 1990,1999
Posts: 166
Status: Offline
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all i am saying is that i was given grief this season from the head tech guy in the sw region where you live and that i would remove it before getting your log book issued.otherwise i feel it is a good setup and looks like what i have done all year.there seems to be a difference of opinions on what a segment is and you will be dealing with stubborn old men in the scca.

cnj
Member

Region: SW Division
Car #: 32
Year : 1999
Posts: 194
Status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Chris Haldeman:
all i am saying is that i was given grief this season from the head tech guy in the sw region where you live and that i would remove it before getting your log book issued.otherwise i feel it is a good setup and looks like what i have done all year.there seems to be a difference of opinions on what a segment is and you will be dealing with stubborn old men in the scca.

Chris is right. I had the same issue with my 3 elements and was told by (I assume) the same tech inspector that I would be DQ'd. I challenged this and checked with SCCA national inspectors and they confirmed. I was told however that it would be difficult to protest 4 bolts through the same 2 stacked elements for example.

Craig J

BrianW
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Region: SW
Car #: 59
Year : 1999
Posts: 28
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Thanks for the heads up guys, I will make sure I "fix" it before i go through SCCA tech.

dunk
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Year : 1999
Posts: 50
Status: Offline
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Ok,

Before I do something silly I need help from those that have slotted the timing wheel on a 99 car.

Here's a picture of my timing wheel, looking at it from the front of the car
 -

The red paintmarker annotates the direction I think I need to slot to allow for advance of the timing.

Did I get it right?
How much longer do I need to make the slots?

thanks,

Duncan

Chris Haldeman
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Region: texas
Car #: 71,72
Year : 1990,1999
Posts: 166
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you are going the right direction.dont forget to do the pin hole also.the slots do not need to be opened very much.something like 1/8th inch is good.

Cajun Miata Man Verified Driver
Overdog Driver

Region: Houston; SWDIV
Car #: 15
Year : 99
Posts: 680
Status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Chris Haldeman:
you are going the right direction.dont forget to do the pin hole also.the slots do not need to be opened very much.something like 1/8th inch is good.

You could just leave the locating pin out since it no longer serves any purpose with open timing.

--------------------
James York


sponsored by:
Stan's Auto Center, Lafayette LA
powered by:
East Street Racing, Memphis TN
set up guru:
Gilfus Racing, Austin TX

Chris Haldeman
Member

Region: texas
Car #: 71,72
Year : 1990,1999
Posts: 166
Status: Offline
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see james that is why we keep you around.that is rotating weight is it legal to remove? lol [Big Grin] and it still helps locate the balancer in the right position

Cajun Miata Man Verified Driver
Overdog Driver

Region: Houston; SWDIV
Car #: 15
Year : 99
Posts: 680
Status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Chris Haldeman:
see james that is why we keep you around.that is rotating weight is it legal to remove? lol [Big Grin] and it still helps locate the balancer in the right position

I am down to two lugnuts. Do you think the wheel will hold with one?
[duck]

--------------------
James York


sponsored by:
Stan's Auto Center, Lafayette LA
powered by:
East Street Racing, Memphis TN
set up guru:
Gilfus Racing, Austin TX

Chris Haldeman
Member

Region: texas
Car #: 71,72
Year : 1990,1999
Posts: 166
Status: Offline
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[yep] [yep] Lol I thought you would Like that.

 
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