Man, I feel like I am writing to Penthouse Forum or something starting out with, "I never thought this would be me, but here I am" HAHAHA.
Background: I am in the Army and a few of my buddies are building cars to race CVAR. WAY OUT OF MY PRICE RANGE! I decided to go SPEC Miata and convinced a fellow aviator to do the same so that we could push each other to build these things. I have been reading ALOT, ordered the build guide, talked to owners at track days, and decided to get started. I heard it is cheaper to buy then build, but I like the garage time on the weekends and want the full meal deal experience. Not looking to run top of the pack, but don't want to be last either.
Picked up a 1992 Black and Tan from a friend for 1200. Drove it for about a month to feel it out. Leaving engine alone for now. [IMG][/IMG]
Added stripes and painted rims to make me think it was a race car.... [IMG][/IMG]
Bought 1990 with hardtop for hardtop. Sold car for profit = FREE HARDTOP. [IMG][/IMG]
Installed intake and aluminum race radiator
Started to take interior apart... [IMG][/IMG]
After reading different techniques and evaluating many pictures, decided to cut doors and paint... [IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
Found a local Miata nut and picked up box-o-parts to include full Torsen swap with drive shaft and new in the box axles, R chin spoiler, and misc trim parts.
I will be building the roll cage off the existing Hard Dog roll bar with the guidance of a friend that builds Porsche roll cages.
Recently recieved seats and quick release steering wheel.
Just ordered some Aero Catch flush mount hood pins.
Next is finding the complete suspension kit and rims/tires. (is it worth converting to 99 and up upper and lower shock hats?)
That is a quick catch up post, but I will try to make smaller more frequent posts from now on...
Rawn
Steven Holloway
Blue Eyes, Aquarius, hates being squeezed to the grass in SowDiv!
Region: Lonestar
Car #: 97
Year : 91 Posts: 740
Status: Offline
posted
Just make sure you buy some real tie-down straps. 1" straps are ok for the golf cart, not for a car with K's worth of blood, sweat, and $.
-------------------- If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's got electrical problems.
As far as the add on, hard dog sells a kit to do it, but I am gonna try and make a better one than the one offered to maximize space.
Just had a few moments and installed the removable steering wheel that has been in a box for a month. No instructions made it a fun puzzle. I really wanted the ability to retain the horn so I can continue getting it inspected. [IMG][/IMG]
New suspension components in with FCM bushings and 99 shock hats. Old stuff out! I love coming home and finding goodies on the doorstep. Hope I can figure out how to get tab one into slot A. Time to browse the forum and refresh myself on all the tips and tricks. [IMG][/IMG]
Region: Gulf Coast
Car #: 12
Year : 1999 Posts: 10
Status: Offline
posted
Good luck with your build. I had that same intake on my car, switched to the straight version and saw a gain of 1.5hp.
I'm starting a 1992 Miata build myself here in a month or so. Already have the car. I think I'll just leave the supercharger on it and see if anyone notices.
-------------------- 2009 TMC East coast Champion. Spec Miata-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zA_Dt-omsbc
Region: OVR
Car #: 88
Year : 1991 Posts: 2401
Status: Offline
posted
quote: As far as the add on, hard dog sells a kit to do it, but I am gonna try and make a better one than the one offered to maximize space.
You're on the right track, I suggest running front down-tubes through the dash, as far away from you as possible, with a real knee bar. Might be better to sell old bar and start fresh with a custom cage.
I also repacked front wheel bearings with synthetic grease, cleaned, rebuilt and painted calipers, and installed braided brake lines.
Next will be to swap Diff with PPF, drive shaft, and axles. All parts are on hand and sitting in garage.
Cage and nets should be in the mail.
I painted the tub first because I am on a budget, and it was a cheap easy thing to do. I know I will have to grind a little and touch up after the cage install, but at least I am done with the brunt of it.
I have found all this to be very fun, and I look forward every day to coming home from the flight line and jumping in the garage. The wife is not so sure, but I keep telling her the quicker it is done, the more time she will get.
Also, I should buy stock in gloves and hand cleaner at the rate I go through them!
I am doing this all on my own with research from this forum, Chiltons, and THE build guide. I think I have a good handle on things. I have been to a few events and looked at some cars, but if there are any veterans with war stories or helpful hints that would like to "swing by" and look at my progress PM me. I would drag the car to you, but it is not quite ready for that yet.
Region: Kansas City
Car #: 95
Year : 1991 Posts: 311
Status: Offline
posted
Cut off those dust shields! They just get in the way, cut your hands and are a nuisance.
Also, if and when you decide to repaint your car, wrap up those red and yellow suspension parts super tight or, better yet, take them off. The overspray really was a disappointment when my dad painted my car for me.
Region: SW
Car #: 40
Year : 1991 Posts: 49
Status: Offline
posted
quote:Originally posted by Eric Barbaric: Cut off those dust shields! They just get in the way, cut your hands and are a nuisance.
Also, if and when you decide to repaint your car, wrap up those red and yellow suspension parts super tight or, better yet, take them off. The overspray really was a disappointment when my dad painted my car for me.
(Didn't know the cars even came with dust shields). If your budget allows... some new adjustable sway bar end-links would be a good investment.
You read my mind. The end links are already on order (along with other odds and ends).
I was looking at my ball joints while putting in the suspension, and the rubber bushings looked flat and cracked all the way around it. Should I bother replacing bushings, or even the entire joint?
I may be leaning a little forward in the saddle, but I started messing around with paint schemes using the templates I found on the forum. I was drawing random patterns and noticed one looked like a helicopter, so I went with it. Being an Apache pilot and listening to the Houston Airshow outside my office right now inspired me. Some of my friends wanted to start "Gunship Racing"............. [IMG][/IMG]
Bring the tail across the hood...... [IMG][/IMG]
A simple flag pattern........... [IMG][/IMG]
Just add numbers, and a few other stickers to make it complete.
Region: NASA-SoCal
Car #: 23
Year : 1995 Posts: 912
Status: Offline
posted
Replace the lower ball joints.
I tried painting my calipers years ago. After 10 laps on track they were black again.
-------------------- Rob Gibson RJ Racing 2010 NASA Nationals TTE Champion 2008/2009 WERC Champion 2007 NASA SoCal SM Champion rjracing.net Weekend-Racer.com
I understand the budget thing. Yes thought about doing the same thing. But, I want sure how the paint would hold up after the welding.
Where did you find the templates? I searches several times, but didn't find what you did. (nevermind, I found them. Hadn't tried the word "template". I'll post them on my blog shortly.)
Funny, I come home from the flight line, too. I design avionics for military aircraft.
Btw, my brake lines had to come off the caliper headed directly at the body. The way yours are oriented my wheels hit the lines. Dunno about yours...just saying.
Region: Central FL
Car #: 17
Year : 1991 Posts: 275
Status: Offline
posted
Shim the sway bar mounts so they move super easy, almost like they will fall down once you pick them up, use washers, or shims so they wont bind, stick some Amsoil or Redline on the mounts, Binding sway bars are a constant maint. do them when you change your oil or trans fluid..
Nice looking build thus far, cool paint scheme with the Appache on the side. Keep up the good work...
-------------------- BDR Motorsports, Autotechnik Cliff Blanchard Down on power 1.6 Sluggish overweight 99'
Region: Utah
Car #: 70
Year : 1991 Posts: 169
Status: Offline
posted
At a national race last year I asked the SM Tech that was flown in if it was legal to shim the sway bar mounts and he said no, that's what I was told from an offical
Region: CFR
Car #: 97
Year : 1990/99 Posts: 788
Status: Offline
posted
quote:Originally posted by Tyler Dahl: At a national race last year I asked the SM Tech that was flown in if it was legal to shim the sway bar mounts and he said no, that's what I was told from an offical
That might be what he said but just about every car that I have seen uses washers. If you don't the bar will lock up and will not work like it is supposed to. We are suppose to run a horn as well but I see less of those then I do washers!
-------------------- 2010 ARRC Champion 2010 CFR Champion 2010 instigator of the year 2010/2011 Andrew Von C Wingman
Out with the old, in with the new. The diff was much easier to drop than I expected. Dropping with the PPF makes it a snap. Now we will see if I say the same about the reverse (since I am doing everything by myself). [IMG][/IMG]
I read everything I could find here and on the internet to help identify the Torsen. I wanted a way to identify the diff I was buying was indeed a Torsen. The only hard fact I think I took away is "Torsen" is not a brand, but short for torque sensing. Other than that, one of the write ups discussed what to look for when spinning the output shafts. When spinning the left output on my old diff, the right side spun the same direction. When spinning the left output on the "new/used" one, the right side spins the OPPOSITE direction.
At least I know the one I put in is a different type of diff. Makes me feel a little better.
Parts rolling in. Painted control arms black, connected adjustable sway bar links, routed brake lines to avoid tires, and removed brake shields. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]
Cage should be in tomorrow. I will take the week to read the directions and hopefully attempt the install over the weekend.
Steven Holloway
Blue Eyes, Aquarius, hates being squeezed to the grass in SowDiv!
Region: Lonestar
Car #: 97
Year : 91 Posts: 740
Status: Offline
posted
It's gonna take more than a weekend, especially if it's your first one.
-------------------- If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's got electrical problems.
I just want to check that I did this correctly before moving on. I installed the suspension with 99 hats and FCM upgrade. I followed the FCM directions and have these perches that came with the shocks left over. Just making sure they are not used anywhere. The car looks soooooo darn low with not much shock travel when I finally let it back on the ground. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]
Steven Holloway
Blue Eyes, Aquarius, hates being squeezed to the grass in SowDiv!
Region: Lonestar
Car #: 97
Year : 91 Posts: 740
Status: Offline
posted
Looks correct. If you haven't set the ride height yet, the car could easily be too low. The left over perches are for stock installations and are not used with the adjustable coil over kit.
-------------------- If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's got electrical problems.
Region: NCR
Car #: NA
SMIM: NA Posts: 125
Status: Offline
posted
which end link's did you go with? i discovered tht mine are an old set of Gearhead's 1.0's, in difinate need of freshening.
as for the swaybar bushing's, i recomend using a synthetic teflon, or silicone type grease (like what come's with the poly bushing kit's). permatex also used to make a nice synth lube like that, that work's real well.
hoop
-------------------- hoop '91 Spec Miata '90 NA Beater/Track Day car '06 RSX Type S
First car, first cage....the rest goes without saying. Working a few half days, we are down to the last overhead bar. This is the only pic I have from my phone now, but I have plenty on my camera to download. Projected cage completion..THIS SUNDAY!
Region: North East
Year : 96 Posts: 38
Status: Offline
posted
Looks good! I am getting my car back from getting the miata cage kit installed Saturday and then I can paint the interior and put all the goodies back in my car.
That's looking great you seem to be having so much fun doing it.
If anyone hasn't already said it you have some air bag stuff in plain view that is legal to remove. Others might quote the weight advantage of removing it and the wiring.
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I had that same intake on my car, switched to the straight version and saw a gain of 1.5hp. ![[scratchchin]](graemlins/scratchchin.gif)
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