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Author Topic: 1993 Spec Miata Build by R&R Race Shop (Pics)
rob20rx7
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Here are some pics of the 1993 Mazda Miata i picked up last week. Shows about 143,000 miles and i will be using this to start my project. Has a Banged up driver door and fender as well as the hood has some damage but i already found a donor car to get the parts off from.

I currently run in FARA MP-3 and SCCA events with my 3 gen Rx7 but the thought of racing Spec Miata has always followed me. Now its time to stop and grasp it! I will be joining you Fellow Racers soon on the track!.

Any help and advice will be greatly appriciated!

First on the order list will be to strip the car down and get it ready for a roll cage.

Any suggestions?

RoB
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rob20rx7
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Car #: 25
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Here is the build Thread from RX7 Forum with my 3rd Gen rx7.

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=506890

Black Sweeper Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Region: CFR
Car #: 8
Year : 92
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welcome
I am Central Florida lots of SM help in CFR.

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CFR/SeDIV SM # 8

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
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Iím by no means an expert in building these things but I did build my own and learned a few lessons on what to do wrong or at least how other people built their cars betterÖ

Not knowing the history of the car and how youíre going to approach welding in the cage, my first thought would be make sure you have everything nice and straight before you start welding. Even if damage is hard to see, dents in the body like that are likely to bend the suspension components. If youíre welding in the cage while itís sitting kind of twisted, the cage will do a good job of stiffening it up so it stays kind of twisted. That could make it difficult to set up the car once itís all done.

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

rob20rx7
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Im am going to have the cage done by Jaime chassis shop in west palm beach. He has done several cages for us already and feel confident in his work. i looked over the suspension of the car and doesnt look like the hit affected any of it. i took the car to an alignment shop and they said it can be aligned to OEM specs. any other measures i can take to verify this?

David Dewhurst
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quote:
Originally posted by rob20rx7:
any other measures i can take to verify this?

Yes, being that the Mazda FSM is a requirement you'll find in the FSM underbody dimensions. If you don't have a FSM borrow from a friend to be sure your good with the chassis at the get-go.

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Have Fun [Wink]

David Dewhurst
CenDiv
Milwaukee Region
Spec Miata #14

Dave Stevens
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Year : 90
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Dave Wheeler's book is well worth the 20 bucks. Even if you have experience building there is SM specific info that I found helpful.

http://www.advanced-autosports.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=42

Dave

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The 2011 Money Furnace
http://racing.roaddog.com/

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
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OEM specs for suspension angles wonít do you much good for a race car. I little bend in the lower control arm will mean you can get a lot more camber than stock but much less than youíll want when you get a real alignment done with the SM suspension kit installed.

If youíre taking it to an alignment shop, ask them to max out the camber on both sides and see what the maximum possible angles are on each side before they set it where you want it. If one side is straight, and the other side is slightly bent, youíll probably see you could get a lot more camber on the RHS than the LHS.

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Alberto M Goncalves
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Year : 1990
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Hi Rob. I'm also on the 7 club. Always admired your FD race car.

Recommendation - find a very good cage builder that can make the most of the small interior.

rob20rx7
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Car #: 25
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Thanks for the compliments Albert. My plan is to complete the 4 rotor engine build to eventually put it into that FD.

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=744417

I want to build this SM so that i can beat the hell out of it on the track while having fun racing with you guys! LOL

Here are some pics of the parts car i picked up to replace the needed parts on the build car and have some spares left over.

thanks for your help so far guys with the PMs on identifying the Rear-end.

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rob20rx7
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Updates!
Took the car to a computer alignmenet shop and all seemed to align to factory specs.

I then brought the car to our shop and went to town on it taking out the interior and so forth.

Pictures of the Hard Top i found in Ft Lauderdale
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rob20rx7
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I found this seat locally. Fits me Perfectly but the Miata..... thats a different story. LOL looks like i will be notching the floor.

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rob20rx7
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Some more stripping of the car
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rob20rx7
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My friend Carl that currently races SM for SCCA and NASA came by the shop on this night to check out the progress and gave me some more pointers on what to do and not to do with the car along with some ideas to consider for fitting the seat.

IM really excited and looking forward to getting on the track with you guys soon. Hopefully in March 2011.

I pressure cleaned the interrior and as you can see it looks like a new car underneath.

I also went ahead and took out whatever sound Dentning material it had with some dry ice from publix. worked perfect and popped right off.

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rob20rx7
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Car #: 25
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Wheels came in today
i picked up 4 TR Motorsport wheels from tire rack
15x7 with 25mm offset

they are the ones that come with no center caps and are listed for a BMW

Now i just need to find someone that would like to sell some cheap used tires so i can put them on the car for its first shakedown.

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Jay Flath
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Region: North East
Year : 96
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Hey on the seat. You dont need to notch the tunnel. I am running a Sparco Circuit pro and if you use the right parts it will fit no problem with just a little hammering it in. I removed the rear factory seat mounts and used this bracket from awr for the seat.

http://store.awrracing.com/products/1990%252d2005-Mi...parco-Slider-Pattern.html

That bolts to the factory front mounts and then you drill for the rears. For side mounts, dont use the Sparco mounts. They angle out to far on the sides and hit the tunnel. I came from the bmw world so I am using these mounts from Vac Motorsports.

http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac---superior-side-mount-brackets-universal-p1472.aspx

They are flat on the sides and work perfectly for the tight space of the miata. Let me know if you have any other questions. This setup worked perfectly for me and I have plenty of room.

rob20rx7
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Thanks Jay,

looks like it will make things alot simpler than having to cut out and notch. i like that it just bolts up. i will look into this today when i go to the shop. For some reason i think the side brackets i have now are 90 degree sides. Will this work or are the ones you sent me the link to maybe even thinner?

Jay Flath
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Year : 96
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As long as your side mounts are 90 degree's your all set. These are the sparco ones and you can see how they bump out at the bottom and then go back in and up. Thats where the problem is.

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rob20rx7
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Car #: 25
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Thanks again for your input Jay.
the side mounts i have are the Sparco ones so i decided to take the route you suggested. i will look into ordering them on Monday.

Jay Flath
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No problem. I started with steel sparco mounts and realized the issue and switched to the vac ones and it worked perfectly. If you need more pictures let me know.

rob20rx7
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Car #: 25
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Here are some pics of the Sound Dentning Material removed along with the rear driver side seat brackets. I purchased a Spot weld remover and they actually work really well. this way you dont have that 1/4 inch hole left on the car.

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rob20rx7
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Driver and passanger side doors are cut to make room for the nerf bars of the roll cage.

miatacage.com roll cage purchased from Racers Edge

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rob20rx7
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Car #: 25
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Dash wires cleaned up in the rear and then test fit with the ac components in place.

I also was able to come across a Sweet Mfg. quick release with a Sparco steering wheel.

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rob20rx7
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Engine compartment is mostly stripped. im going to replace the timming belt followed by the intake and exaust gaskets. I will also replace the exaust studs and nuts and i dropped off the Fuel injectors to get cleaned.
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rob20rx7
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Looks like Christmas in January at the shop. alot of stuff came in together. mostly the suspension parts and some other stuff i found on the internet.
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rob20rx7
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Car #: 25
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Thanks again for the suggestion Jay.

Seat brackets came in and they are alot easier to work with. Im waiting for the seat rail to come in so i can start to mount.

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Jay Flath
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Year : 96
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No problem. Now you can see the difference. Any questions hit me up an I'll get back to you when I can. At the hospital today as my daughter was delivered at 4pm! She will be joining the community in another 15 years or so. [Smile]

rob20rx7
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Car #: 25
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Congratulations on the addition to the family!!!

   

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