Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95 Posts: 2000
Status: Offline
posted
This may sound like a dumb question but that's nothing new for me...
I had some work done on my original motor, re-ringed it, new bearings, freeze plugs etc. and I'm thinking about breaking it in on a dyno so if I find something wrong, I can deal with it before my 1st race in the spring.
Will the 1st cycle warming everything up in the garage to make sure I don't have a hose or fuel leak somewhere screw up the break in process, or is that part fine, just don't go putz around on the street for a bit or keep firing it up in the garage just to hear it run?
1st time I reringed a junkyard motor I did more of the owners manual proceedure on the street, the rings never did seat, and it was a turd.
-------------------- Keith Novak (Will work for tires)
Region: Oregon
Car #: 68
Year : 91 Posts: 2359
Status: Offline
posted
Keith,
Start it and let it run for a minute just to make sure it's not going to leak, but after that don't start it until you're ready to break it in on the dyno or the track.
-bw
-------------------- Bruce Wilson 2010 Oregon Region Champ 2010 Monte Shelton Driver of the Year 2010 25 Hours of Thunderhill E3 and Under 2 liter Overall Champion Oregon Region SM Class Advisor
Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95 Posts: 2000
Status: Offline
posted
Thanks!
-------------------- Keith Novak (Will work for tires)
Qik Nip
Loose Member '09 & '10 Great Lakes Regional Points Champion
Region: Cincinnati Great Lakes
Car #: 60
Year : 1990 Posts: 1487
Status: Offline
posted
quote:Originally posted by B Wilson: Keith,
Start it and let it run for a minute just to make sure it's not going to leak, but after that don't start it until you're ready to break it in on the dyno or the track.
-bw
I agree and would only add that you'll want to use a "dinosaur" oil like Rotella A for both the start up and the dynonometer run in. BTW, Pull the plugs and crank the engine to get some oil pressure before you fire it.
-------------------- Fortune Cookie Racing SM 60 Directions for use: Race, Rumple, Repair ... Repeat!
Region: Ohio Valley Region
Car #: 35
Year : 1999 Posts: 170
Status: Offline
posted
quote:Originally posted by B Wilson: Keith,
Start it and let it run for a minute just to make sure it's not going to leak, but after that don't start it until you're ready to break it in on the dyno or the track.
-bw
+1 I bought a new crate motor and asked the same question. I was told to drain out the crap oil that comes in the motor put is some break in oil. and start it once to make sure that it runs has a spark then do not start it again till I get it to the track. Once there pull it out and run the hell out of it.
I was thinking about doing it on a dyno but was told that is not the same and you cannot put that kind of a load on it. so That is what I am going to do.
Region: Great Lakes/Detroit
Car #: 51
Year : 1994 Miata Posts: 401
Status: Offline
posted
I have a friend who builds Indy Car engines. He had me run put in 20W50 dino oil and we ran the car for 20 to 30 minutes in the garage. He said that one speed is bad for break in. Idle for 30 min = bad. Drive 60 mph on the highway for 30 min = bad.
I sat in the car. He checked for leaks for 2-3 min at idle. Then he had me slowly rev to 2,000 and back down for 5 min, rev to 3,500 and back down for five min, rev to 4,500 and back down for 5 min, then rev to 5,000 and back down for five min. He checked for leaks the whole time and kept asking for temp readings. Said this is what they do to the Indy engines to prep them for dyno pulls.
Also, since we weren't heading to a dyno with my crate motor, he told me to run the first two or three on track sessions a bit under the max rpm limit - like 6,500 max.
I'm not an engine expert, but this is what my friend had me do and my engine has been three seasons with no issues.
Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95 Posts: 2000
Status: Offline
posted
So since I normally let it warm up fully before setting the timing, am I correct thinking set the timing on the engine currently in the car, mark the CAS. Line up my marks, for the initial install. Call that good enough until I've broken the engine in, THEN worry about tweaking it later?
-------------------- Keith Novak (Will work for tires)
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