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» Hello Spec Miata Community » SpecMiata.com » Spec Miata Garage » 99+ Torsen / Axle install into 1990 - Question on Axle to Hub

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Author Topic: 99+ Torsen / Axle install into 1990 - Question on Axle to Hub
Alberto M Goncalves
Member

Region: SFR
Year : 1990
Posts: 81
Status: Offline
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Hi. I'm in the process of doing a Torsen swap using the Torsen Diff and axles from a 2000 Miata.

I fed the axles into the hubs but their is a bit of a gap as you can see in this pic:
 -

I thought it might go away once I tightened the axle nut but now that I compare to the axle - hub mating from my 1990 Miata I'm starting to think that I'm missing a part. Here is a pic of the configuration from the 1990 Miata:
 -


I know the axles mount differently to the Torsen diff on the NB so I'm not sure if this gap between the axle and hub is normal and will go away once I tighten the axles nuts or if I'm missing some kind of part similar to the metal part you see on the 90 axle in the 2nd pic.

Help please.

Thanks.


Link to album in case the above images break.
http://picasaweb.google.com/alberto.goncalves/Miata?a...YLJgtb8Tw&feat=directlink

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
Posts: 2000
Status: Offline
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That gap should go away once you tighten it up. You're not missing a piece. I've done '95 axles and '00 axles and neither one had that sheet metal looking bit. Stuck my old '95 axles in a friends 91 and they looked just like they did in my '95.

The splines in the hubs can get a bit crudded up and sticky and they do bind a bit. (It almost took high explosives to get the old axle out of the '91.) Might want to run a small wire brush down the splines and use a bit of lube. A little corrosion in a tight fitting joint can be a nightmare. A couple whacks with a dead blow hammer normally gets it to seat all the way into the hub.

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Alberto M Goncalves
Member

Region: SFR
Year : 1990
Posts: 81
Status: Offline
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Really. Seems weird. I found this part on ebay that looks like it would be in that area:
http://compare.ebay.com/like/370351910533?var=lv&...1910533&ff4=263602_309572

Also one of the guys at Mazda Comp mentioned a PN G 304-33-065 for an "oil seal" but not sure...


I noticed the gunk in the splines and cleaned that up with a wire brush and applied some grease while installing.

Thanks for the input. Much appreciated. I've never done this before and feeling a bit overwhelmed.

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
Posts: 2000
Status: Offline
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I stand corrected. I think you are missing the seal taking a closer look at the pic (and it explains the what those spare seals in my parts bin are for). That seal is only about 2mm thick though. It's much much thinner than the one on your '90. When the axle is pulled all the way into the hub, the big gap should go away and the seal almost looks like it's part of the axle.

Here's the exploded view if the link works. The PN is 33-471 for this shot of the 99...
https://www.mazdamotorsports.com/wcsstore/B2BDirect/images/catalog/section/1N08001_1000.gif

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Alberto M Goncalves
Member

Region: SFR
Year : 1990
Posts: 81
Status: Offline
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Yep. I was looking at that earlier as well. I think on ABS equipped cars, there is some kind of ring in that space.

David Luney Verified Driver
Member

Region: ATL
Car #: 29-Killed
Year : 1990
Posts: 193
Status: Offline
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The ABS cars have a trigger wheel but not where your "gap" is. Your pic shows the dust seal. If its not drawing in when you tighten the nut then either the splines or the hub has damage. I will post an ABS axle pic later.

Gibscreen Verified Driver Series Champ
Member

Region: NASA-SoCal
Car #: 23
Year : 1995
Posts: 912
Status: Offline
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Two notes:

First is definitely use something like anti-seize on the splines. Its the difference between the axle and upright fusing together and being able to separate them by pushing gently on the axle.

Second is regarding the seal. If you buy new uprights from MazdaComp, the seal is shown as being included with the upright in the parts diagram, but the upright doesn't actually come with the seal. It needs to be ordered separately. Or at least that's the case for 95s.

--------------------
Rob Gibson
RJ Racing
2010 NASA Nationals TTE Champion
2008/2009 WERC Champion
2007 NASA SoCal SM Champion
rjracing.net
Weekend-Racer.com

Gibscreen Verified Driver Series Champ
Member

Region: NASA-SoCal
Car #: 23
Year : 1995
Posts: 912
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for Gibscreen   Author's Homepage     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

Two notes:

First is definitely use something like anti-seize on the splines. Its the difference between the axle and upright fusing together and being able to separate them by pushing gently on the axle.

Second is regarding the seal. If you buy new uprights from MazdaComp, the seal is shown as being included with the upright in the parts diagram, but the upright doesn't actually come with the seal. It needs to be ordered separately. Or at least that's the case for 95s.

--------------------
Rob Gibson
RJ Racing
2010 NASA Nationals TTE Champion
2008/2009 WERC Champion
2007 NASA SoCal SM Champion
rjracing.net
Weekend-Racer.com

Alberto M Goncalves
Member

Region: SFR
Year : 1990
Posts: 81
Status: Offline
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Thanks. Johnny sent me a pic of his axle to hub and it doesn't look like there was anything there - so looked like my pic.

I'm going to order the part anyway to satisfy my curiosity. I made the mistake of order 4 29mm axle nuts (instead of the larger NB axles nuts for the rear) and I stripped the rear most PPF bolt so I'm SOL to finish this weekend anyway.

I used moly grease on the splines after thoroughly cleaning the splines. Same grease I used on the tranny input shaft.

   

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