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Author Topic: Buying a used spec miata
spistora Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Year : 94
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Any suggestions on what to look for when buying a used spec miata? The car I am considering has been raced a little over a year and I am wondering what is the most likely components that will need replaced if any.

Thanks.

Bernard Verified Driver
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A buying a used race car isn't much different from buying a used car for street use. My advice is: look at the car in general. Is it a clean car? Is the owner anal retentive (like me)? Or didn't he care much about the car. If you're on a budget, you should find an 'okay' car for about $8K, give or take a big bill. A 'nice' car will cost you between $10,5K and $15K. Everything above that number will have something to impress you with, such as a pro motor, etc.
But even if you're on a budget, you don't want to buy a banged up car with 'straightened' frame damage.

--------------------
Bernard
World's Tallest Ex SM Pilot

Jim Daniels
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If the car was a tub up build with all new wearable parts, you are fine. If not then you might have some items that need replacement but the car will (should) be lower in price.

When I took cars in on trade I used this method. I made a list of what it would cost me in parts, donor, top etc.. to build an equal car LESS labor. I subtracted for anything that needed to be replaced or corrected and used that number as my value estimate and initial offer (yes the labor is often lost on race car sales... [Frown] ).

You can get an all out car, needing nothing, at a great savings over building a new one [Big Grin]

Bob Brammer Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Check out some of the 'buying a used Miata' info sheets at Miata.net. Good practical stuff on unique items to look for in a Miata buy. NOT racing stuff, but might be a help.

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Zoom - zoom, correct, zoom - zoom, turn-in, zoom - zoom

BobbyCarter
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Year : 2001
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Jim and I both have great cars for sale!!!

I have found it to be much more cost effective to buy a good "No Excuses" car. The upfront costs may be a little more but you save a ton of time and money in the long run.

Bobby Carter

--------------------
Bobby Carter
#11
Rebello Racing Engines
Larry Oka Racing Services
Stacy Suspension Systems

spistora Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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I currently have a Miata(street car)and from past experience realize building one will cost more than buying a completed one. I know someone locally that wants to sell their spec Miata and wasn't sure if there were any "race components" that are common problems. I already am aware of some of the stock weak points.

Thanks for all the input.

Steve Pistora

RaceDamien
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I'm a little confused. It's supposed to be racing on a budget; how many people have 10k sitting around to buy a spec'ed-out miata? Do people get financing and if so, from who? [Confused]

Pat Newton Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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quote:
Originally posted by RaceDamien:
I'm a little confused. It's supposed to be racing on a budget; how many people have 10k sitting around to buy a spec'ed-out miata?

This may be a foreign concept if you are young, but ever heard of "putting money in a savings account every month, so you can save up to buy something you want?" [Wink]

--------------------
Crew Chief, 3D Racing #64, aka Team Scrappy 2.0
3rd place E2, 2009 25 Hours of Thunderhill

Crew Chief, EGR/Miller Motorsports #64, aka Team Scrappy
E2 Champions, 2008 25 Hours of Thunderhill

Jim Boemler Verified Driver
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Most people do have that much "sitting around", even if they have to sell their wives and children to get it. No bank will knowingly finance your amateur race car, although there may be a few who are doing it without knowing it. Same with insurance -- you're on your own.

Just because it's racing on a "budget" doesn't mean the budget is terribly small. [Frown]

Remember the old adage: "Never race a car you can't afford to push over a cliff."

jim

--------------------
Just a clown

Steve D. Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Once you get past the gag reflex, the jelly ain't bad!

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Everything is relative, eh?

I've only done this for a year, so take my opinion in that context. SM is "racing on a budget" in that racing is expensive as sh*t! Running an SM keeps that cost about as low as you can go while maintaining good size, competitive fields.

[soapbox] I've heard the saying "If you can't afford to push it off a cliff, don't put it on the track." There is a ton of merit to that statement. IMO, you are asking for a world of hurt if you finance a race car.

As far as hobbies go, this stuff ain't cheap.

As far racing goes, this is dirt cheap.

YMMV.

Steve D.

Necio
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Damien, I know the feeling. I was tentative like you about spending that much money for a race car. I bought a used 97 Miata and I am in the process of building it myself a little bit at a time. It works for me, eventhough, it is going to cost a little more and a little longer than if I bought a race car already prepared. I presume building it myself allows me to spend money whenever it is available or at my discretion.

If I were to do it again, I would buy a car already prepared.

In racing be prepared for a mind bending experience. $80.00 brake race pads are a good deal! That fact along took me some time to get used to.

Good luck, Rony

Festus E. Simkins Verified Driver
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Here's the answer I give whenever some one tells me they want to go racing.

First, go in the back yard and dig a hole 10'x10'x10'

Next stand on the edge of the hole and start throwing $100 bill into the hole. Keep doing this until you can't stand it any more.

Next get a gallon of gasoline and pour it into the hole. Then light a match.

If you can't throw the match into the hole don't go racing. [Big Grin]

Jason Meise Verified Driver Made Donation to Website Series Champ
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Region: Lone Star / Washington DC
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Year : 94
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Don't ever save receipts! [nope]

--------------------
Jason Meise
2001 MARRS Champion
http://www.ctbrakes.com
President: Bobby Carter's "washed up race car driver club"
we're always looking for "old" members

kevin 22 Verified Driver
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Year : 1991
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hey Damien, I spent almost $40,000 the first year. Between buying the car , the trailer, tools that I needed, getting a license, skip barber school, Racing suit ,helmet hans device, etc. I had nothing except a tow vehicle. I did spend $12,000 on a trailer, but even if you subtract that for a $1500 trailer instead, Its still a ton of money, I thought I would spend $15000, and before I knew it , I was way over budget. And lets not forget that an eight race season will probably cost between $6000-$11,000.
Correct me if I am wrong, But this is not cheap racing, just alot cheaper then other types of racing.

--------------------
Kevin Anderson

Bill Boom Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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You got off cheap Kevin! I spent $40,000 my first year too but only 3K of that was my trailer/tow vehicle.

jason dave Verified Driver Made Donation to Website Series Champ
The one your parents warned you about

Region: s. pacific
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Year : 1990
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This may sound stupid, but has anyone placed a value on the knowledge you get when you build your own car? I built mine for 12,000, including the cost of the car. And, it is with all new high end stuff.

What I'm getting at is this: When you build your own car, you will learn more than reading any books, or visiting any web site. When you are at the track, and the car stearts making "That Funny Sound", you will be better prepared to diagnose and repair the problem yourself, than if you got an already prepped car. Plus, you will get a shit-ton of satisfaction from doing it yourself!

There are really only a few things that might be better left to a shop; a tranny rebuild, or installing a LSD in the housing, but you could certainly R/R them after the shop was done.

Just my two cents.....

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"Wide open till ya see god, then brake!"

jason dave Verified Driver Made Donation to Website Series Champ
The one your parents warned you about

Region: s. pacific
Car #: 42
Year : 1990
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BTW, if you want to know how to make a million dollars racing cars, start with two million and know when to quit!

--------------------
"Wide open till ya see god, then brake!"

Pat Newton Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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quote:
Originally posted by jason dave:
This may sound stupid, but has anyone placed a value on the knowledge you get when you build your own car?

The 2-5 grand more it costs you to build your own car could buy a lot of track time. For those on a shoestring, IMO it makes more sense to spend less on the car itself and have money available to actually race it, rather than admiring their home-built masterpiece as it sits in the garage because there's no money left to go racing.

I also would bet that "most" people could not duplicate your "build the car with all new high end stuff for $12,000" feat. Change that to a more realistic figure and the race-ready cars in the classifieds section make a lot more sense.

All IMHO, and HO HO HO... [Big Grin]

--------------------
Crew Chief, 3D Racing #64, aka Team Scrappy 2.0
3rd place E2, 2009 25 Hours of Thunderhill

Crew Chief, EGR/Miller Motorsports #64, aka Team Scrappy
E2 Champions, 2008 25 Hours of Thunderhill

Mark Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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One of the issues that a new comer to the sport can run into when buying a car is not knowing what you are looking at. You can spend a lot of money fixing someone elses mistakes, poor engineering, or just altering the car to suit your preferences. You run the same risk when building your own car if you don't have some experience. There are lots of subtle differences just in cages and seats for example that a new car owner or builder might not pick up on and may regret later. The end result is that you can end up spending the money twice.

Any way you go there is a downside. Looking back if I were starting out, I'd probably look for a proven ex-pro series car (17-20k is cheap believe it or not) so that I could take the car and setup out of the performance equation and get out on the track asap. I would try to find an advisor/mentor to help me make the right selection though. Now that I've been doing this for a while and have a feel for what works and what doesn't, I'd probably build a car. Thats just me though. I enjoy the building and tuning process almost as much as driving. Almost. YMMV.

And as Pat said: All IMHO, and HO HO HO... [Big Grin]

--------------------
Mark
http://www.ironcanyonmotorsports.com

jason dave Verified Driver Made Donation to Website Series Champ
The one your parents warned you about

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Year : 1990
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I went and tallied up my reciepts for the car, and it came to 12,329. I was a newbie, and at first it was overwhelming. But, thanks to this site, and other sources, it got it done without a lot of mistakes. Sure, there are some things I would have done differently, but all in all it is a good, solid car. It isn't a "pro" or national level car, but it is a better car than I am a driver. I'm sure at some point, I could realize the benefit of a Sunbelt engine, but for now, my crate motor will suffice.

Like Mark, I enjoy building/tuning/tinkering as much as driving. To me, nothing beats spending a Sunday at the shop, smoking a good cigar, and working on the car.

--------------------
"Wide open till ya see god, then brake!"

Bernard Verified Driver
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Year : 1991
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What I learned from my first SM build is this:

1) One cannot build a car for the price an equal car is available for purchase.

2) It is possible to buy a car for $8K, and it is possible to build a car for $10K. My donor only cost $2,050 and was and still is a very clean one owner car with 100% factory original paint.

3) I cannot buy a reasonably priced SM, 'cause non of them is as nice as I personally demand it.

4) Even most of the more expensive cars are crappy. Tim Buck has a very nice car and the tub-up built cars like the BSI cars are very nice (albeit also very pricy), but most SM cars show a lot of battle scars already.

5) $15-$18K buys a nicely sorted National level car or even an ex-Pro car. It cannot be duplicated for the money.

6) The main advantage on building a car is to learn about it and, more importantly, the fact that one can build it exactly the way he wants.

--------------------
Bernard
World's Tallest Ex SM Pilot

jmb Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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quote:
I presume building it myself allows me to spend money whenever it is available or at my discretion
that was my experience. at the time I was getting started, I had lots of time and not enough money. the car was built slowly, one part at a time. money was spent when it was available. that was easier than writing one big check. start to finish was about a year. now that I have less free time and a little more $, if I had to do it over, I would buy an already built or almost ready car

back to the original question, miata.net has a few pages on checking out a used Miata . some of the info there is aplicable to an SM.

--------------------
jmb
90 SM #84

spistora Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Thanks for the input. I have purchased a built Spec Miata from a local guy that raced it about 4 or 5 times in ’04 and never got it back out in ’05.

There are a few things that need updated/fixed but overall I think it will be a good starting point.

I am looking forward to getting on track this season and will look forward to meeting the SM drivers in the Midiv.

Steve

Mike Colangelo Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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I recently purchased a local (SoCal) SM after a 3-4 month search. Here's what I learned:

1. Do your homework. Study the SCCA GCRs regarding what's currently legal and what will change for next year. Know what constitutes a good cage, safety equipment, and good maintenance practices.

2. Check out as many SMs as you can see, including ones that aren't for sale. Talk to the owners about what to look for. Most owners will happily show you their cars and pass on their knowledge to you.

3. Be sure you sit in these cars to see how you fit. Fitting a seat in a SM is a pain, trust me. The best thing is to buy a good car with a good seat that fits you. Kevlar seats (FIA) are the best. I put an Ultrashield aluminum seat in my car because it was the only seat that fit both me and my car well. I'm, ah, "big-boned."

4. Before negotiating any price, be sure that the car has a up-to-date log book and check it out. Check the entries for tech inspector comments and to see how many race weekends the car has particpiated in.

5. Have the car checked out by a race prep shop that knows these cars. Get their honest opinion. I didn't do this but if I were in the market again, I'd do that.

Z-MAN Verified Driver
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Region: Mid-South
Car #: 54
Year : 1990
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What I learned from the experience of buying a SM last year:

1. Call Jim Drago or Jim Daniels and have them build you one - They have done it all and made all the mistakes already so you won't have to make them yourself.

2. If you don't follow rule one be prepared to follow those that did...

Just my $.02 - and PS. I am tired of following Drago around already... Somebody find a way to hide some ballast in that Battleship Grey 99.

Z-Man

Bob Thornton - Race Engineering Verified Driver Made Donation to Website Series Champ
When the eagles are silent, the parrots begin to jabber. - Sir Winston Churchill

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Z-Man knows best!!!!!!!!
Rule #1 call JD or the other JD they have done it all [Big Grin]
Rule #2 is spot on lead or follow.
Z I think everyone is tired of following the big King around but get used to it.
As for the Battleship grey 99,It gets better every week!!

--------------------
Bob Thornton
http://www.raceengineering.org
Race Engineering Championship Winning Engines

Z-MAN Verified Driver
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The big guy just seams to get faster and faster... I think that 99 is going to surprise some of these guys...

Z-Man

Drago Verified Driver Made Donation to Website Series Champ
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Taking bids on battleship gray car as we speak...
[yep] Starting on new 94 car for Topeka.

--------------------
Jim Drago
East Street Auto Salvage
jdrago1@aol.com
2006-2007 Mid-West Division
07,09 June Sprints Champion

EAST STREET RACING

Dwayne Hoover Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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quote:
Originally posted by Jim Drago:
Taking bids on battleship gray car as we speak...
[yep] Starting on new 94 car for Topeka.

Dear CRB,

Those 800 letters we sent last week about adding 50 lbs and reducing restrictor plate by 2mm for the '99+ cars? Well, when we said '99, we MEANT to say '94!!!

Sorry for the typo!

Thanks!

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Visit the Midland City Arts Festival!

Mike Bell Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Year : 1990
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To bring this topic back up, anyone have a checklist they can share on what parts they would check out for wear/tear or replacement in an "experienced" SM?

Seems to me that the cars fall into 3 categories, the under 10K group just built and barely raced, the mid range up to 16K where it is well sorted and maybe a fresh motor, then the up to 25K big time national event podium types with freshened internals and setups that win. I'm looking at some local cars but with minimum track history, what things besides a well built cage would be no-brainers to check out?

--------------------
Mike Bell
http://www.bns-racing.com/sm.jpg

Blake Clements Verified Driver Series Champ
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Hubs, Differential Service, Clutch type and age, who maintaned the car, any hard contact, and any major components replaced are just a few things to learn about on age.

Check PM's Mike.

--------------------
Blake Clements

PhillipsRacePrep/SP Induction Systems/East Street Racing/MiataCage.com/Carbotech/WBR Graphics

www.blakeclements.com

Qik Nip Verified Driver Made Donation to Website Series Champ
Loose Member '09 & '10 Great Lakes Regional Points Champion

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quote:
Originally posted by Jim Boemler:
Remember the old adage: "Never race a car you can't afford to push over a cliff."
jim

Jim:
I thought it was "Never race a car you wouldn't douse with gas and flip a lit match at" If it goes off the cliff, it might hurt somebody.
Rick

--------------------
Fortune Cookie Racing SM 60
Directions for use: Race, Rumple, Repair ... Repeat!

Jim Boemler Verified Driver
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I stand corrected, Rick. [Big Grin]

You should probably add that when you light the match, the car could well be upside down, with you belted into it.

jim

--------------------
Just a clown

Mike Bell Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Uh, ok, so other than the "drive off a cliff" or "set fire with match" criteria, anything else on the basic "must check" list? [Smile]

--------------------
Mike Bell
http://www.bns-racing.com/sm.jpg

Casey Z Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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I would want to know what laptimes it had turned with a known driver in the car. I can think of several local cars I would buy and several others I wouldn't just based on the level of prep and the times the car is capable of.

--------------------
----------------
Z Brothers Racing / East Street Auto

Casey Z - 1.6 Kettle
MidDiv National #13

Mark de Regt Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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I bought a known fast car from a known good guy and excellent driver. That's the best I could have done.

Jim Boemler Verified Driver
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I thought it was "all the driver"? [scratchchin]

I've found that getting hot-shoe times is easier said than done. I managed to trade with a top local driver once, but since the cars we were used to were very different, we both struggled with each other's cars. He did beat me in my own car, but not by as much as either of us thought would happen.

What I'm trying to say is that while great times in a particular car do boost its credibility, I wouldn't walk away from a car simply because nobody "fast" has ever driven it.

jim

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Just a clown

guest driver
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike Bell:
Uh, ok, so other than the "drive off a cliff" or "set fire with match" criteria, anything else on the basic "must check" list? [Smile]

"Minimum track history car" = a tough one to inspect.
reread what Blake said above, those are critical components. ask for reciepts, build history of the components, SCCA log book ?. Then, in addition, treat it the same as your buying a used street car ;
check the front frame rails to see if bent/tweaked/repaired from any major front end damage. Get underneath the car to see if everything "looks" straight and correct. Exhaust firmly and correctly installed ? any bent pieces, any leaks ?? pull the wheels to check the brakes, caliper leaks . trust your gut sense if things "look" right or not. Check the fire extinguisher bottle for green charge, check all the gauges to make sure they work, go under the dash to check for loose wiring. First start and warm up the car and then drive the car around the block to check the clutch, tranny shifts and the motor. Bang it off the rev limiter in 2nd gear just to see that the motor gets there cleanly with no missfire. Let it idle afterwards to see if it overheats.
Bring someone who has built or raced a SM for a second opinion. Offer $1,000. less than asking as you will spend it going over the car in the first month.
Good luck,
Carlos G.

cam Verified Driver
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Almost everything is replaceable, just time and money which I do not have enough of either.

Must check:
Current log book with any “interesting” notes indicating heavy damage
Will it pass tech? Are seat belts current, other items that get checked at annual tech (window net, cut-off switch…)
Quality of the cage and seat, does it fit you fully suited up. (head clearance and such)
Tweaked tub, real hard and expensive to straighten a tub, might be easier and cheaper to start over
Is it legal, clutch, cams, compression
If it is not safe or can not be made safe easily then walk away. You can always make it fast later. [Wink]

Nice to check:
Check for play in the diff, remove filler plug and check for sulfur smell, means burnt gear oil. If seller allows, drain diff and check for shavings on the magnetic plug. Same for transmission. Some shavings are OK but chunks are bad.
For early model clutch pack diff, jack up one rear wheel and apply a torque wretch to it. It can only hold (not sure of a good value) around 20 ft lbs, then clutch pack is worn out. At one time my was good for around 40 ft lbs, I’ll check this weekend to see what it is currently doing.
Should be no play in the front hubs, if any then just a matter of time before needing to replace.
If front LCA are not new, assume bent
If you have access to scales, then is the car close to the desired weight, also, might be a way to check of tub is tweaked
How ready is it to currently race, such as transponder, log book, tires, wheels, spares

If serious about dropping close to $15K on a car, then IMHO, take it to a dyno and competent shop, there are several in the Houston and surrounding area that can confirm if you’re getting ready to buy someone else’s problem of a solid platform for the most competitive field in SCCA.

Plus what Blake and Carlos G. said (Carlos posted while I was writing this)

Hope this helps

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"The problem with Socialism is that you eventually run out of other people's money."
~Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher
"A government big enough to give you everything you want, is strong enough to take everything you have."
~Thomas Jefferson

Casey Z Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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quote:
Originally posted by Jim Boemler:
What I'm trying to say is that while great times in a particular car do boost its credibility, I wouldn't walk away from a car simply because nobody "fast" has ever driven it.

Agreed. We often swap cars and drivers in our local series and have seen similar results. What I was trying to get to is try to figure out how much of the times were car and how much were driver. For example, I am 1 second off track record in my car as currently prepped at my home track. Most of that second is driver, not car and the guys I race with pretty much know that. Conversely, there are cars a couple of seconds off where I am that are very well prepped, but the drivers just aren't there yet.

Times can be very useful in determining the potential of a car, but you need to have an idea of whether it was a hot shoe time or a rookie. That and how much seat time the hot shoe had in the car.

Hope that makes sense.

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Z Brothers Racing / East Street Auto

Casey Z - 1.6 Kettle
MidDiv National #13

Mike Bell Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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quote:
If front LCA are not new, assume bent

Yikes, thanks for that bit of advice and the rest of your post Charles!

--------------------
Mike Bell
http://www.bns-racing.com/sm.jpg

Jim Boemler Verified Driver
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That's a pretty jaundiced view, IMHO. Ideally you would check to be sure the car could be aligned properly, though. You could just set up a string box to be sure the car was aligned "close", then be sure the alignment bolts aren't max'd out. Don't go crazy with the arms unless a real problem exists.

jim

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Just a clown

mdavis Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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This whole discussion might as well be titled "Buying a used car". Fact is that unless the car is completely fresh there will always be things that are not entirely to your liking. Just like buying a used street car. If you are reallly looking for something brand new and fresh, looking for a used street car is probably not for you.
I'd bet that over 90% of the cars listed in the classified section here are fairly represented and reasonably priced based on the level of prep and current market. In fact I'd bet there are even one or two cars listed right now that are below market (hint-I paid for one).

--------------------
Matthew F. Davis
Texas Region SCCA

Al Holz
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2007 was our first year racing SM. Here is what I learned.

#1 Never, ever, ever buy a car, no matter what the price, that you have not laied your eyes on.

#2 Decide if you want to lead the pack from the start or be a mid pack racer.

#3 If you decide you want to lead the pack from the start (assuming you are a top notch driver already) then save your money until you can afford a $15k to $20k car. It will will most likely have a blueprinted "Spec" engine and all the goodies that go along with it.

#4 If you decide that your a mid pack driver to start with then there are a lot of cars that can get you there (assuming you know how to drive) for anywhere from $6k to $12k.

#5 If you buy a $6k car plan on spending another $6k over the first year, maybe two, to get it where it will be competitive cosistantly.

#6 Check out U-Haul and Thrifty rentals. You can rent a flat bed car hauler for about $100.00 a weekend.

#7 SM racing isn't cheap, it's affordable.

#8 No matter how much you put into your car, someone else will always have more money and knowlege than you to put into thier car, but its still fun trying to beat them.

#9 No matter how much money and knowlege is put into a car any car can have a flat tire, loose a gear, break an engine and run out of gas (on the last lap!)

#10 If your out front all by yourself, who are you racing against?

#11 Some of the best SM racing takes place mid pack.

#12 SM if full of a lot of freindly and helpful drivers, crew and thier family members. It's a great group to spend a weekend with.

Casey Z Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Al, good observations! Felt the same way after year one. Year two was about the same but increase the dollars spent. The closer you get to the front the more the $$$ matter.

BTW, had to get this in after seeing Matt's ad for his car in the classifieds. "Blowing by El Guapo" video link? Please, you jumped the start (and I got a bad one!!!) you blasted by Steve J too. Don't make me post lap two where I leave you in the dust. [Wink] Just kidding. Hope you stick around and race with us.

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----------------
Z Brothers Racing / East Street Auto

Casey Z - 1.6 Kettle
MidDiv National #13

mdavis Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Hey Casey. When you sell your car please feel free to post lap #5 where you "blow by mdavis". [Smile]

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Matthew F. Davis
Texas Region SCCA

Casey Z Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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quote:
Originally posted by mdavis:
Hey Casey. When you sell your car please feel free to post lap #5 where you "blow by mdavis". [Smile]

Naw, I will pick some juicey stuff of me blowing by someone faster like you did! You did get a hell of a good start there by the way. Too bad you got in the wrong line after T1...

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Z Brothers Racing / East Street Auto

Casey Z - 1.6 Kettle
MidDiv National #13

Vick Verified Driver
Do they sell spec training wheels?

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This may sound kind of silly, but for me when buying my used SM the biggest thing was I felt I could trust the guy who sold it to me, and his reputation as a nice guy and fair racer. I think the majority of us involved in the sport don't want to sell a car and then have the rest of the paddock find out that we took the buyer for a ride with a bunch of bad parts, problems, etc.

Chances are if you're buying from a racer that is known and is staying in the game, he's not going to try to get over on you. Hopefully his reputation means more to him than the extra couple of bucks he can make by lying to you.

Just my two cents.

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http://www.volko.com

Brian Benthin Verified Driver
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Year : 1990
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I don't think that sounds silly at all. [yep]

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Brian

Sphinx Verified Driver
M. Yusuf Mohamed

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quote:
Originally posted by Jim Boemler:
Most people do have that much "sitting around", even if they have to sell their wives and children to get it. No bank will knowingly finance your amateur race car, although there may be a few who are doing it without knowing it. Same with insurance -- you're on your own.

Just because it's racing on a "budget" doesn't mean the budget is terribly small. [Frown]

Remember the old adage: "Never race a car you can't afford to push over a cliff."

jim

Listen to the clown! I saved up for my first racecar by taking $35 a paycheck raise that I got and putting it aside.

If you can't afford to walk away from a car, don't race it.

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Sphinx Racing
Atlanta Region
http://www.sphinxracing.com
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Support our racing efforts by shopping at your favorite online merchants at SphinxRacing.com!

 
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