Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95 Posts: 2000
Status: Offline
posted
I've seen the Autopower bolt in kit. If I remember right, it needed some welding to make it pass tech. (Bill B...feel free to comment on your cage and whatever you needed to do to it.)
Much of the left coast uses the Miatacage. It's a very nice cage, I've always felt safe in it, and Sean, the owner is a great guy so I don't mind giving my money to him. There are other nice weld-in cages too. I don't have as much experience with them so I can't say much but their owners are also nice guys who have your best interest in mind too.
A weld in cage is going to permit better structural integrity with low weight however. The bolt-in option, while it might seem like a good short term solution, probably isn't your best bet long term.
-------------------- Keith Novak (Will work for tires)
Region: NWR/Oregon
Car #: #26
Year : 1991 Posts: 334
Status: Offline
posted
I may have the only Autopower bolt in cage in the NW, but hey, that's the way the car came and there are more pressing issues needing money. I did have double door bars added, but they are not nascar styled. It's a bit tougher to enter and exit because of the design, but hey I got an SCCA tech sticker over the summer.
Building from scratch I would certainly do the miatacage kit and may at some point switch over, but it'll do for now. The only part of the autopower cage I don't like is the proximity of the down tube near my left leg. I would much rather it went through the dash and allowed me the use of the dead pedal.
Not sure regarding weight advantage or disadvantage. I was at 2312 last time on scales and that was with me at 243. Probably not much of a weight difference between cages, but that's just a guess.
---------------------- Bill
PS: Hey Keith...message me via email and tell me all your race exploits this past summer...
-------------------- William Bonsell SCCA/ICSCC #26 SM/ITA
Region: NASA-SoCal
Car #: 23
Year : 1995 Posts: 912
Status: Offline
posted
Where are you located? Tony Woodford's shop is in Vista (San Diego) and does great work with his AWR Racing cage. He sells it as a weld-in kit but if you're within driving distance to SD he does a great install too.
It's a little pricier and maybe 20 lbs heavier than other weld-ins since it's .120 tubing instead of .095, but it's very solid, safe, and roomy. But like all other safety equipment, how much are you willing to bet?
-------------------- Rob Gibson RJ Racing 2010 NASA Nationals TTE Champion 2008/2009 WERC Champion 2007 NASA SoCal SM Champion rjracing.net Weekend-Racer.com
"I may have the only Autopower bolt in cage in the NW, but hey, that's the way the car came and there are more pressing issues needing money. I did have double door bars added, but they are not nascar styled. It's a bit tougher to enter and exit because of the design, but hey I got an SCCA tech sticker over the summer."
Some thoughts - the most important thing in racing is safety. For some reason racers in general gloss over this fact - it can't happen to me syndrome. My advice is spend your money first on safety then on the rest of it. It is your but on the line and don't rely on that SCCA tech sticker as your shield. You and you alone are responsible for your safety.
When you get in your car you should know you have the best equipment that money can buy. Whether it is your roll cage or your seat. Buy the SCCA safety video and learn what has been developed to date for your safety.
Roll cage - Check out the cages that Rushmotorsport's installs - GREAT craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Seat - Racetech - Yes you cry "It is $2500." - hell the wheel chair will cost you that much! After you see the SCCA video on side impacts you will want one.
HANS device - don't drive w/o it.
Why am I so hot on safety - because it is my but - my life on the line. To date I have in two major crashes - I walked away from both of them.
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