Jim Daniels has completed the updated version of his Original Setup Guide. You can find version 2 of his setup guide on the home page of specmiata.com or by clicking the link below.
This document is released into the public domain and may be reproduced and distributed in its entirety so long as all credit to Jim Daniels and Specmiata.com remains. If you find this guide helpful please send a token of your satisfaction by Supporting Us
Region: southwest
Car #: 14
Year : 90 Posts: 739
Status: Offline
posted
Thank you Jim for version 1 and 2. And Yes, a dyno tuning guide would be great.
-------------------- "The problem with Socialism is that you eventually run out of other people's money." ~Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher "A government big enough to give you everything you want, is strong enough to take everything you have." ~Thomas Jefferson
Region: Milwaukee
Car #: 99
Year : 1990 Posts: 78
Status: Offline
posted
Great guide!!! Thanks and a dyno guide would be much appreciated!!
Wanted to Dyno my car soon but will now wait for your guide.
Thanks!
-------------------- Trakmnky
Jim Daniels
Guest
Status: Offline
posted
I will get on it next week and ask Drago to help. He is the undisputed king of how to get the most out of the Dyno in the least time. (yes, a nice way to call him cheap).
Region: SW - Houston
Car #: 6
Year : 99, 96 Posts: 2262
Status: Offline
posted
quote:Originally posted by Jim Daniels: I will get on it next week and ask Drago to help. He is the undisputed king of how to get the most out of the Dyno in the least time. (yes, a nice way to call him cheap).
What about the grammar, will you handle that?
-------------------- Blake Clements
PhillipsRacePrep/SP Induction Systems/East Street Racing/MiataCage.com/Carbotech/WBR Graphics
quote:Originally posted by Jim Daniels: I will get on it next week and ask Drago to help. He is the undisputed king of how to get the most out of the Dyno in the least time. (yes, a nice way to call him cheap).
What about the grammar, will you handle that?
Blake, you don't need no stinkin' setups anyway. You're a karter. Just pitch and drift around the problems
Region: Oregon
Year : 1990 Posts: 434
Status: Offline
posted
Jim D,
Thanks for doing this. A couple of questions. First, can you really get -3* camber on the fronts? With the old shock hats I've had my car as low as 4 1/2" and could only get to -2.2*. Second, on page 8 did you really mean 70 psi???
Region: CalClub
Car #: 44
Year : 1992 Posts: 1364
Status: Offline
posted
Jim- as always, thanks for everything you do for the SM community!
Kick some butt in Koni Challenge!!!
-------------------- Tim Buck
MAZDASPEED Motorsports Development Mazda North American Operations phone (800) 435-2508 fax (949) 222-2650
zoom-zoom!
Jim Daniels
Guest
Status: Offline
posted
Gang, Drago is back from two weeks of racing. We are going over the Dyno draft now. Should have something out maybe this weekend or next week. Srry late!
Region: CenDiv
Car #: 89
Year : 97 Posts: 26
Status: Offline
posted
I have been in Spec Miata for three years now but haven't done any real tuning. My current project is to get my car set for my first race this season at Blackhawlk Farms in April. This guide looks seems to be just what I need for now.
Region: Utah
Car #: 93
Year : 1996 Posts: 72
Status: Offline
posted
Thanks for providing such a great set up guide! All this stuff isn't learned overnight and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
A tip I used when scaling and making the adjustments is I wrote up on one side of paper and down on the other. I did this on 4 sheets so that I could leave them at each scale pad. After I took my readings and established which direction the weight needed to go I put the paper showing either up or down at each corner so that I could keep my rotations straight before I took a wheel off.
-------------------- Utah Region SCCA, R.E. Drinking team with a Racing problem
Jim Daniels
Guest
Status: Offline
posted
Glad to do it guys! good suggestion Jonlee!
Dyno guide is coming, Drago and Sam have been beating away. My input glanced at but not worthy of adding, they have made dyno tuning art!
Region: NER
Car #: 28
Year : 1991 Posts: 75
Status: Offline
posted
How much of ver 2.0 can be applied to a SSM car? Ride heights are much different now with the new shock hats (which we don't have in SSM). What is a good height to use as a base and how much will that effect everything else? How much of ver 1.0 is useable (base numbers)? What were you guys using before the shock hat change?
Region: MidDiv
Car #: 13
Year : 92 Posts: 2873
Status: Offline
posted
Bart, it will depend on the track, but without the shock hats, somewhere around 5" give or take, maybe a bit higher if it is a bumpy track. Do some testing and see what you like best.
Some people will tell you to slam the car to get camber. I don't agree with that school of thought.
-------------------- ---------------- Z Brothers Racing / East Street Auto
Anyone know why my camber/caster gauge's instructions (it's a 20 year old hand-me-down) would say to multiply the resultant figure by 1.5 to get caster?
Because you aren't measuring the caster angle directly, you are measuring the change in camber between two steering angles, and 1.5 is the accepted multiplier for converting camber angles taken at +/- 20 degrees of road wheel steer angle. A brand new gauge would tell you to do the same thing, or would have a second graduated bubble with the *1.5 built in.
See also Google.
-------------------- Visit the Midland City Arts Festival!
Region: Indy
Car #: 33
Year : 1994 Posts: 422
Status: Offline
posted
JD and Drago,
Any idea when the dyno guide is coming?
Thanks, jay
-------------------- "In our sport if you go out of bounds you're most likely not coming back" Michael Waltrip
JIM DANIELS
Guest
Status: Offline
posted
Funny you ask, I'm about to do a full build guide for the site. The dyno portion will be included as the build guide will chronicle every step from donor purchase to first track day.
I will have an announcement soon in the announcement section.
Region: Waterford Hills
Car #: 38
Year : 96 Posts: 348
Status: Offline
posted
quote:Originally posted by JIM DANIELS: Funny you ask, I'm about to do a full build guide for the site. The dyno portion will be included as the build guide will chronicle every step from donor purchase to first track day.
I will have an announcement soon in the announcement section.
How can "soon" in JD time be measured? Days? Months? Years? A complete guide, Century’s?
-------------------- Ralph Provitz #38 2008 WHRRI SM Champion 2008 WHRRI Top 10 Overall V2 Motorsports, Race support, Data Dude
Region: Atlanta/Southeastern
Car #: 41
Year : TBD Posts: 1
Status: Offline
posted
I'm new to the sport and just wanted to say this is great. I didn't expect so much information to be out there from the other drivers. I'm in Iraq right now taking in all I can about SM. I'm hoping to be racing by mid 2011. Can't wait to meet you guys on the track. This forum is invaluable. Thanks All!!!!!
-------------------- "Opportunities multiply as they are seized" -Sun Tzu
Region: NJ
Car #: 12
Year : 1997 Posts: 137
Status: Offline
posted
In JDs set up guide STEP 2, it is says that the caster should be between +3 & +5, However in the paragraph right before that, it says to pull the caster back to full negative(lower ball joint toward the rear of the car) and forward one notch. Wouldn't this be negative caster( or certainly not +3-+5) as opposed to the recommendation of positve caster? I have never seen anyone question this, so I have to assume I am reading this wrong. Any clarification would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike
quote:Originally posted by Mike: Jim Daniels has completed the updated version of his Original Setup Guide. You can find version 2 of his setup guide on the home page of specmiata.com or by clicking the link below.
This document is released into the public domain and may be reproduced and distributed in its entirety so long as all credit to Jim Daniels and Specmiata.com remains. If you find this guide helpful please send a token of your satisfaction by Supporting Us
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