Region: Mid-South
Car #: 54
Year : 1990 Posts: 711
Status: Offline
posted
I'm replacing bushings in some control arms and notice the manual states you should lube the bushing with a "Paraffin Based Rubber Oil" (SUNPAR 107 or equivalent) before pressing them in.
I know that petroleum based lubes break down the rubber - I can't seam to find this lube - What do I use?
Region: Mid-Atlantic
Car #: LUCKY #13
Year : 1990 Posts: 13
Status: Offline
posted
good luck, im in the middle of this exact nighmare and wishing i never started. Im using a ball joint press and its a horrible job. the bushings are bad but the frozen bolts are even worse.
Region: NASA FL / CFR SCCA
Car #: 25
Year : 1991 Posts: 374
Status: Offline
posted
I've used a method on Mustang's in the past where you use a drill bit and "walk it" around the outer circumference of the bushing. It loosens the rubber part of the bushing from the housing, then you cut the housing with a sawzall when the rubber is out. It is a pain in the a$$, but will work with time. I prefer not to use this method, especially if there is an easier way. I have a manual press, has anyone tried that before?
Region: NER
Car #: 7
Year : 1999 Posts: 636
Status: Offline
posted
^^Yeah, as a last resort old bushings can be burned out.
-------------------- -Cy Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA http://www.speedshackonline.com
Region: Oregon
Car #: 68
Year : 91 Posts: 2359
Status: Offline
posted
Works as a first resort too. Just heat the suckers up until you hear them starting to fry, then push them right out. The rubber is hot and sticky, so be careful. And they make a big mess that won't wash off of anything, and they like to roll around once they're out, so protect the garage floor with something or do it outside. You'll also want to clean out the inner surfaces with a rag before the rubber starts to re-harden.
-BW
-------------------- Bruce Wilson 2010 Oregon Region Champ 2010 Monte Shelton Driver of the Year 2010 25 Hours of Thunderhill E3 and Under 2 liter Overall Champion Oregon Region SM Class Advisor
Region: ODR
Car #: 17
Year : 1994 Posts: 82
Status: Offline
posted
I'd been wrestling with how to get the bushings replaced for months, having previously used fire and drill bits with limited success. Concern over weakening the control arms made me leery of trying those methods again.
I just bought a C-frame press from Harbor Freight last week (part # 38335), locked it into my vise, and put the impact wrench on the driver. 4 bushings out in about 5 minutes, no damage to the arm.
Good thing I thought to check the forum, though, because I hadn't even considered lubing the new ones... Soap & water works well, huh? I suppose if it's good enough for tires, it's good enough for bushings, too.
Region: Mid-South
Car #: 54
Year : 1990 Posts: 711
Status: Offline
posted
The more experienced guys say to be careful with soap. Too much won't dry well and the arm will walk on the bushings.
I'm told to set up the press - pre-position the new bushing align he press - lube with Hair Spray (Pump) and press it in fast. Hair spray dries/hardens and the bushing is set in place.
Silicon is not a great idea - it won't dry inside - the arm can walk on the bushings.
Region: NER
Car #: 7
Year : 1999 Posts: 636
Status: Offline
posted
Results? I'm about to embark on the bushing replacement journey. I too was told to use dish soap when pressing the new bushings in and not to burn the old ones out because it may weaken the metal.
Should the metal sleeves be pushed out first, or just press out the entire unit with the sleeve in the center? I've got a ball joint c-shaped manual press and an impact gun that I'm going to try before looking for a hydraulic press.
-------------------- -Cy Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA http://www.speedshackonline.com
Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95 Posts: 2000
Status: Offline
posted
Press the entire unit out.
I did some trackside with a vise and a large socket. I only had grease on hand for lube. PITA. It took me forever. If you wind up struggling with it the dish soap will buy you more time than hairspray.
-------------------- Keith Novak (Will work for tires)
Region: Southwest
Car #: 22
Year : 92' Posts: 296
Status: Offline
posted
Sounds silly but hair mousse gives you more working time and eventually evaporates like the hairspray. Had to take one out about three weeks later, no problem with the press.
Region: WDC
Car #: SSM 53 "Lola"
Year : 1990 Posts: 464
Status: Offline
posted
I've done this a couple of times now, and the HF tool is the schnizzle. It makes the job so easy that my wife was able to do it. It is well worth the $30 or so they charge for the thing.
When putting the bushings back in adult lubricant is very effective and won't hurt the bushings over the long term. You just have to explain to your wife why you are taking a tub of KY out to the shop.
-------------------- Rob Myles Hero To The Momentum Impaired
Steven Holloway
Blue Eyes, Aquarius, hates being squeezed to the grass in SowDiv!
Region: Lonestar
Car #: 97
Year : 91 Posts: 740
Status: Offline
posted
You have to explain? My wife doesn't even ask anymore.
-------------------- If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's got electrical problems.
Region: NER
Car #: 7
Year : 1999 Posts: 636
Status: Offline
posted
I finished one corner last night. I used a ball joint kit and an impact gun...with styling mousse for lube Everything went together pretty smoothly. The only thing I'd suggest is to make sure there isn't any rust on the inside of the bushing holes in the control arms. I lightly used a Dremel with a sanding wheel to remove some surface rust on the rear upper arms on the car side. The toughest part was figuring out which bushings go where. Thanks for the help everyone!
-------------------- -Cy Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA http://www.speedshackonline.com
Region: Houston
Car #: 91
Year : 1991 Posts: 2171
Status: Offline
posted
quote:Originally posted by CP: ... The toughest part was figuring out which bushings go where. Thanks for the help everyone!
Yep. I printed out a copy of the exploded diagram from Mazdamotorsports.com and laid the bushings out on the diagram, checking them off one by one as they went in.
-------------------- Do I turn my 99 Hard S into a killerfast SM or seek a donor?
Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95 Posts: 2000
Status: Offline
posted
Since the service manual doesn't specify hair mousse, removing rust, a ball joint kit or an impact gun WRT the control arms, I think you'd better throw that one out and get a new one. Especially since you used an "anti-friction" coating and removed unauthorized material.
-------------------- Keith Novak (Will work for tires)
Region: NER
Car #: 7
Year : 1999 Posts: 636
Status: Offline
posted
Should I mail it directly to you so that you can take care of proper disposal Keith?
-------------------- -Cy Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA http://www.speedshackonline.com
Region: NER
Car #: 7
Year : 1999 Posts: 636
Status: Offline
posted
All done. Pretty easy once I got the hang of it. The impact gun is a must or you'll be turning a wrench forever.
-------------------- -Cy Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA http://www.speedshackonline.com
Region: NER
Car #: 7
Year : 1999 Posts: 636
Status: Offline
posted
When it's 25* out and tools hurt to hold, lots of things. I take it the only cold thing that'll be in your hands this weekend is beer, or your wanker.
[ 12-08-2009, 07:49 AM: Message edited by: CP ]
-------------------- -Cy Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA http://www.speedshackonline.com
Region: NER
Car #: 7
Year : 1999 Posts: 636
Status: Offline
posted
^^^Unfortunately we're teammates. So it's always uncomfortable in the garage area at LTD Racing
-------------------- -Cy Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA http://www.speedshackonline.com
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Everything went together pretty smoothly. The only thing I'd suggest is to make sure there isn't any rust on the inside of the bushing holes in the control arms. I lightly used a Dremel with a sanding wheel to remove some surface rust on the rear upper arms on the car side. The toughest part was figuring out which bushings go where. Thanks for the help everyone!
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