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Author Topic: Control Arm Bushing Replacement
Z-MAN Verified Driver
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Region: Mid-South
Car #: 54
Year : 1990
Posts: 711
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I'm replacing bushings in some control arms and notice the manual states you should lube the bushing with a "Paraffin Based Rubber Oil" (SUNPAR 107 or equivalent) before pressing them in.

I know that petroleum based lubes break down the rubber - I can't seam to find this lube - What do I use?

Thanks,


Z-Man

Sean Allen Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Region: SFR
Car #: 54!
Year : 90'
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ooops, I replaced mine and didn't lube em up.. ha

Seems to be working ok [scratchchin]

Z-MAN Verified Driver
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Region: Mid-South
Car #: 54
Year : 1990
Posts: 711
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There was no tearing or crumbling?

Z-Man

Sean Allen Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Year : 90'
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On the old or new ones?

The old ones seemed ok for being 200k+ miles old. Thew new ones I dipped in warm soapy water and they slipped right in.

Karl Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
2001 ARRC Winner


Region: SW
Car #: 50
Year : 1600
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Hair spray.

Z-MAN Verified Driver
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Region: Mid-South
Car #: 54
Year : 1990
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Hair spray - Great Idea.

Thanks Karl...


Z-Man

John A - 5X Racing Verified Driver
www.5xracing.com

Region: NASA FL / CFR SCCA
Car #: 25
Year : 1991
Posts: 374
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What's the easiest method you'all have found to remove the old ones?

--------------------
John Adamczyk

Owner: 5X Racing Online Race Shop
Driver: Team 5X Racing #25 Spec Miata
NASA FL Race Director
Race Engineering Powered 1.6

Steven Holloway Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Blue Eyes, Aquarius, hates being squeezed to the grass in SowDiv!

Region: Lonestar
Car #: 97
Year : 91
Posts: 740
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Hydraulic press and cuss like a sailor. Be careful with the rear uppers though, they're easy to bend.
S

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If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's got electrical problems.

J.M.13 Verified Driver
Member

Region: Mid-Atlantic
Car #: LUCKY #13
Year : 1990
Posts: 13
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good luck, im in the middle of this exact nighmare and wishing i never started. Im using a ball joint press and its a horrible job. the bushings are bad but the frozen bolts are even worse.

John A - 5X Racing Verified Driver
www.5xracing.com

Region: NASA FL / CFR SCCA
Car #: 25
Year : 1991
Posts: 374
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I've used a method on Mustang's in the past where you use a drill bit and "walk it" around the outer circumference of the bushing. It loosens the rubber part of the bushing from the housing, then you cut the housing with a sawzall when the rubber is out. It is a pain in the a$$, but will work with time. I prefer not to use this method, especially if there is an easier way. I have a manual press, has anyone tried that before?

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John Adamczyk

Owner: 5X Racing Online Race Shop
Driver: Team 5X Racing #25 Spec Miata
NASA FL Race Director
Race Engineering Powered 1.6

Steven Holloway Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Blue Eyes, Aquarius, hates being squeezed to the grass in SowDiv!

Region: Lonestar
Car #: 97
Year : 91
Posts: 740
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quote:
Originally posted by Steven Holloway:
Hydraulic press and CUSS LIKE A SAILOR!. Be careful with the rear uppers though, they're easy to bend.
S


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If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's got electrical problems.

jigou Verified Driver
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Region: Des Moines Valley
Car #: 59
Year : 1991
Posts: 1910
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Blowtorch.

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http://www.plainoldgas.com

CP Verified Driver
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Region: NER
Car #: 7
Year : 1999
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^^Yeah, as a last resort old bushings can be burned out.

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-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA
http://www.speedshackonline.com

B Wilson Verified Driver Series Champ
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Region: Oregon
Car #: 68
Year : 91
Posts: 2359
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Works as a first resort too. Just heat the suckers up until you hear them starting to fry, then push them right out. The rubber is hot and sticky, so be careful. And they make a big mess that won't wash off of anything, and they like to roll around once they're out, so protect the garage floor with something or do it outside. You'll also want to clean out the inner surfaces with a rag before the rubber starts to re-harden.

-BW

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Bruce Wilson
2010 Oregon Region Champ
2010 Monte Shelton Driver of the Year
2010 25 Hours of Thunderhill E3 and Under 2 liter Overall Champion
Oregon Region SM Class Advisor

soupy
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Region: Mohud
Car #: 98
Year : 1999
Posts: 915
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silicone spray works great too.

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Charlie Campbell
Race Engineering
carbotech brakes

ahamos
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Region: ODR
Car #: 17
Year : 1994
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I'd been wrestling with how to get the bushings replaced for months, having previously used fire and drill bits with limited success. Concern over weakening the control arms made me leery of trying those methods again.

I just bought a C-frame press from Harbor Freight last week (part # 38335), locked it into my vise, and put the impact wrench on the driver. 4 bushings out in about 5 minutes, no damage to the arm.

Good thing I thought to check the forum, though, because I hadn't even considered lubing the new ones... Soap & water works well, huh? I suppose if it's good enough for tires, it's good enough for bushings, too.

Thanks!

Brian Benthin Verified Driver
Professional ballast

Region: Northwest
Car #: ICSCC #322
Year : 1990
Posts: 283
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Man, price is right on that tool to at $30.
Nice to hear that something from Harbor Freight works. [Wink]

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Brian

Z-MAN Verified Driver
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Year : 1990
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The more experienced guys say to be careful with soap. Too much won't dry well and the arm will walk on the bushings.

I'm told to set up the press - pre-position the new bushing align he press - lube with Hair Spray (Pump) and press it in fast. Hair spray dries/hardens and the bushing is set in place.

Silicon is not a great idea - it won't dry inside - the arm can walk on the bushings.

I'll let you what I find next week.

Z-Man

CP Verified Driver
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Region: NER
Car #: 7
Year : 1999
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Results? I'm about to embark on the bushing replacement journey. I too was told to use dish soap when pressing the new bushings in and not to burn the old ones out because it may weaken the metal.

Should the metal sleeves be pushed out first, or just press out the entire unit with the sleeve in the center? I've got a ball joint c-shaped manual press and an impact gun that I'm going to try before looking for a hydraulic press.

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-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA
http://www.speedshackonline.com

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
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Year : 95
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Press the entire unit out.

I did some trackside with a vise and a large socket. I only had grease on hand for lube. PITA. It took me forever. If you wind up struggling with it the dish soap will buy you more time than hairspray.

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

pat slattery Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Region: cincy
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We used the blow torch method after failing miserably with all the usualy methods. Works pretty good, smells bad. [Frown]

For installing, we used a procuct called tire snot, that we use for mounting go kart tires. Works great.

Pat

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keeping the faith for the 1.6

Arrow Karts

MPR22
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Region: Southwest
Car #: 22
Year : 92'
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Sounds silly but hair mousse gives you more working time and eventually evaporates like the hairspray. Had to take one out about three weeks later, no problem with the press.

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Michael Ross

Wreckerboy Verified Driver
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Region: WDC
Car #: SSM 53 "Lola"
Year : 1990
Posts: 464
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I've done this a couple of times now, and the HF tool is the schnizzle. It makes the job so easy that my wife was able to do it. It is well worth the $30 or so they charge for the thing.

When putting the bushings back in adult lubricant is very effective and won't hurt the bushings over the long term. You just have to explain to your wife why you are taking a tub of KY out to the shop.

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Rob Myles
Hero To The Momentum Impaired

Steven Holloway Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Blue Eyes, Aquarius, hates being squeezed to the grass in SowDiv!

Region: Lonestar
Car #: 97
Year : 91
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You have to explain?
My wife doesn't even ask anymore. [Eek!] [rolling on floor laughin]

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If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's got electrical problems.

CP Verified Driver
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Region: NER
Car #: 7
Year : 1999
Posts: 636
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I finished one corner last night. I used a ball joint kit and an impact gun...with styling mousse for lube [thumbsup] Everything went together pretty smoothly. The only thing I'd suggest is to make sure there isn't any rust on the inside of the bushing holes in the control arms. I lightly used a Dremel with a sanding wheel to remove some surface rust on the rear upper arms on the car side. The toughest part was figuring out which bushings go where. Thanks for the help everyone!

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-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA
http://www.speedshackonline.com

Kent Carter Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Future Never Has Been

Region: Houston
Car #: 91
Year : 1991
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quote:
Originally posted by CP:
... The toughest part was figuring out which bushings go where. Thanks for the help everyone!

Yep. I printed out a copy of the exploded diagram from Mazdamotorsports.com and laid the bushings out on the diagram, checking them off one by one as they went in.

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Do I turn my 99 Hard S into a killerfast SM or seek a donor?

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

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Year : 95
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Since the service manual doesn't specify hair mousse, removing rust, a ball joint kit or an impact gun WRT the control arms, I think you'd better throw that one out and get a new one. Especially since you used an "anti-friction" coating and removed unauthorized material.

[Big Grin] [duck]

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

CP Verified Driver
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Car #: 7
Year : 1999
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Should I mail it directly to you so that you can take care of proper disposal Keith?

--------------------
-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA
http://www.speedshackonline.com

CP Verified Driver
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Region: NER
Car #: 7
Year : 1999
Posts: 636
Status: Offline
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All done. Pretty easy once I got the hang of it. The impact gun is a must or you'll be turning a wrench forever.

--------------------
-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA
http://www.speedshackonline.com

Jeff Longo Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Car #: 46
Year : 1993
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And what's wrong with turning a wench? [Big Grin] [butthead] [scratchchin]

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LTD Racing
Chief Of Inappropriate Comments

CP Verified Driver
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Region: NER
Car #: 7
Year : 1999
Posts: 636
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When it's 25* out and tools hurt to hold, lots of things. I take it the only cold thing that'll be in your hands this weekend is beer, or your wanker.

[ 12-08-2009, 07:49 AM: Message edited by: CP ]

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-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA
http://www.speedshackonline.com

Vick Verified Driver
Do they sell spec training wheels?

Region: NYR
Car #: 12
Year : 1991
Posts: 620
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I'm uncomfortable!!!

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http://www.volko.com

CP Verified Driver
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Car #: 7
Year : 1999
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^^^Unfortunately we're teammates. So it's always uncomfortable in the garage area at LTD Racing [butthead]

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-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA
http://www.speedshackonline.com

Jeff Longo Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Year : 1993
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"Can't we all just get along?"

[group hug]

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LTD Racing
Chief Of Inappropriate Comments

   

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