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» Hello Spec Miata Community » Spec Miata Archives » Garage 2002-2009 » Caliper rebuild

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Author Topic: Caliper rebuild
Scottie
Member

Region: WDCR
Car #: sm 19
Year : 93
Posts: 199
Status: Offline
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Hey guys, ive done my fair share of searching on this.

Tomorrow I am doing the brakes on the car, and the calipers of my 93 have never been rebuilt. I have rebuild kits for the front and rear. any pointers? special tools? any help would be terrific. Thanks!

Scottie

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How do I fit this ls7 into my mia... nevermind.

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
Posts: 2000
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An air compressor is a big help to pop out the pistons. Get ready for the loud pop. Startled the heck out of me and I knew it was coming. It's a pretty straight forward job all in all.

Be forwarned, if the previous owner left nasty contaminated brake fluid in there you might be throwing away a couple of calipers. When I took mine apart the first time, the fronts were in good shape but the pistons and bores on the rears were shot.

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Richard Pressman Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Veteran Member

Region: WDC
Car #: 87
Year : 1991
Posts: 520
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Be REAL gentle with the air pressure when popping the pistons. It doesn't take much.

And watch your fingers! [Smash]

Chris Fulton
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Region: CFR
Car #: #38
SMIM: gepipe@rocketmail.com
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For the front calipers, any tricks on putting the front boots over the piston and into caliper?

Scottie
Member

Region: WDCR
Car #: sm 19
Year : 93
Posts: 199
Status: Offline
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thanks for the help guys!

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How do I fit this ls7 into my mia... nevermind.

Steven Holloway Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Blue Eyes, Aquarius, hates being squeezed to the grass in SowDiv!

Region: Lonestar
Car #: 97
Year : 91
Posts: 740
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quote:
Originally posted by Chris Fulton:
For the front calipers, any tricks on putting the front boots over the piston and into caliper?

Put the seal and boot in the caliper, lube the piston with some brake fluid, hold it against the dust boot and use air pressure to "inflate" the dust boot out over the piston. It takes a gentle touch and a few practice tries.
S

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If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's got electrical problems.

Chris Fulton
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Region: CFR
Car #: #38
SMIM: gepipe@rocketmail.com
Posts: 56
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Thanks Steven!

CP Verified Driver
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Region: NER
Car #: 7
Year : 1999
Posts: 636
Status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Steven Holloway:
Put the seal and boot in the caliper, lube the piston with some brake fluid, hold it against the dust boot and use air pressure to "inflate" the dust boot out over the piston. It takes a gentle touch and a few practice tries.

Gonna give this a try. I tore up two new boots last night trying to get the damn piston back into it [Mad]

A few tips that I learned: put a piece of wood into the caliper when popping the pistons out with air. This prevents them from sailing off and getting scratched up, which could be a safety issue. For the long slide pin boot that goes through the caliper, use the pin the push it through. I lubed with some soap and then put some grease on the pin before inserting it into the new (dry) boot.

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-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA
http://www.speedshackonline.com

Don D Verified Driver
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Region: New England
Car #: 52
Year : 1990
Posts: 42
Status: Offline
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When rebuilding the rears, you will need a long c-clip pliers. There is a c-clip at the bottom of the bore that releases the threaded post. You need to remove this to change the e-brake arm seal. Most c-clip pliers won't reach.

-Don

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Southern Auto Auction
Eastern Powersports Auction
Kessler Engineering
http://www.kesslerengineering.com/Site/Home.html

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
Posts: 2000
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Hmmm I don't remember that part from when I rebuilt my rears. Could missing that snap ring or if it's broken explain why on my LR caliper, the adjusting allen bolt seems to feel like it's indexing into notches when I turn it rather than turning smoothly and why the bolt often comes out when I remove the allen wrench?

I'm looking at the exploded diagram but it's hard to make out what fits into what.

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

CP Verified Driver
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Region: NER
Car #: 7
Year : 1999
Posts: 636
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I was told not to even bother rebuilding the rears. They're tough to do and chances are I wouldn't do it right anyway. I got a few from Mazdaspeed (they're all rebuilds now) and they all sucked. I've been using rear calipers that come in a box with "Centric" stamped on the side for a year now and they don't have the problems that the OEMs did/do.

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-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA
http://www.speedshackonline.com

Don D Verified Driver
Member

Region: New England
Car #: 52
Year : 1990
Posts: 42
Status: Offline
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Kieth,

If you are looking at the diagram, #26-816 is the clip. Once you remove the piston by "un-screwing" the adjustor all the way you can see it. It sits down in a well at the bottom of the bore. When you remove it (with your long c-clip pliers)the threaded post #26-731 pulls out. Once that is out it frees up the e-brake arm #26-800. Pull that out and you can replace it's seal.
Your "indexing" is because the back side of the piece you turn with the allen wrench is a gear that meshes with the edge of the threaded post (and turns it). Your gears are eating themselves. Pull that piece out with the allen wrench and look at the gear end. It will probably look damaged. It's supposed to be loose in there so that's not a problem. They will eventually stick and you won't be able to adjust the caliper. To fix it, you need to replace the post and the adjuster #26-733. I noticed that the new ones have a larger contact area where the two mesh. Mazda probably never intended the rear brakes to be manually adjusted as often as we do it. You can try just replacing the "adjuster gear" if it looks really bad and hope the gear on the post is ok. Otherwise it's a rebuild. Hope this helps.

-Don

--------------------
Southern Auto Auction
Eastern Powersports Auction
Kessler Engineering
http://www.kesslerengineering.com/Site/Home.html

Nigel Stu Verified Driver
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Region: Detroit
Car #: 66
Year : 1992
Posts: 105
Status: Offline
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My LF caliper always seems to torque, I get very uneven pad wear and the caliper can rock on the pins. This was a 'new' rebuild calipers when I put them on. Pins themselves appear to be new. Is there any way to rebuild the FR caliper pins/slides? Or am I missing something?

Any ideas? Or do I just need to buy some more FR calipers until I find one that the bore for the pin isn't excessively worn?

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Ben Schaut
Schaut Speed Motorsports
GLDiv / WHRRI
#66 Blue/White/Black

Marc S Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Region: NCR
Car #: 65
Year : '90
Posts: 312
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Rebuilding the rears is finicky, but definitely do-able. I think I used two crossed very small flat screwdrivers to get the snap ring at the bottom of the bore (after I'd exhausted my other options, and ground on a couple of "standard" snap ring pliers).

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Marc Schatell
Winston-Salem, NC
SEDiv SM #65

Muda Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
ComingToAMirrorNearYou

Region: WDC
Car #: #23
Year : 1991
Posts: 642
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Nigel -

Some aftermarket caliper kits furnish brackets without the insert at the end for the pins to ride on. My experience has been that these allow the caliper to torque much more. On my last set I chose to use the old brackets. This might be your problem.

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Muda Motorsports
"We're all here 'cause we're not all there."

   

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