Region: SFR
Car #: 12
Year : 99 Posts: 267
Status: Offline
posted
Keywords in the title for future searchers.
I need to pull the internals from the diff to have them rebuilt. I undid the dozen or so bolts around the case; I have the whole thing out of the car, but I can't get the halves to separate and I'm not sure if the only thing holding it together is some silicon or not.
The service manual says to beat on it with a deadblow hammer around where the PPF attaches which I obliged, but no luck. I wanted to get a reality check and see if I'm forgetting something or if there is another way to attack it? The rubber shock mount and driveshaft flange and nut are still attached if that makes a difference but the FSM doesn't show to remove it until after the case is split? I cut away the excess silicon with a razor blade but I can't seem to slide it in between the halves and I'm hesitant to scratch the case and cause a future leak.
Region: SEDIV
Car #: 33
Year : Whatever's Available! Posts: 311
Status: Offline
posted
The only other thing that would hold it together would be the stubshafts, but if yours is a '99 (based on your member info), yours won't have any stubshafts.
Other than that, all that is left is silicone and corrosion. Between a deadblow hammer and some prying tools, it should come loose. If I remember correctly, I think there are a couple alignment pins between the case halves that might make it feel as though it's still bolted together. Just keep at it, and you'll get it apart.
-------------------- Dan Tiley
Sponsored by Race Engineering Spec Miata's fastest and best supported engine program!
Region: SFR
Car #: 12
Year : 99 Posts: 267
Status: Offline
posted
Thanks - will beat on it some more when I get home tonight. The only thing that protrudes on the case near the split is the PPF mount. Can I hit upwards on the rubber donut at the top to work the other side too?
Region: mid south
Car #: 2
Year : 1999 Posts: 4275
Status: Offline
posted
Try tapping small chisel ( not smashing) in between and open like a clam. Once it starts to go, it will pop open. I know it sounds stupid, but make sure all the bolts are removed, maybe you missed one?
Region: NW/OR
Car #: 04
Year : 90 Posts: 1765
Status: Offline
posted
The "ears" of the case that house the carrier bearings are a slight interference fit to the aluminum case. Once the silicone breaks loose, you may feel that too. Don't be alarmed.
I usually hold the diff by the pinion flange (in my hand) and beat on the wings of the aluminum housing with a big dead blow hammer. Hold it close to the ground so you don't drop it too far. A few good hits and it will be apart.
Region: SFR
Car #: 12
Year : 99 Posts: 267
Status: Offline
posted
Thanks guys - got it apart last night and now it's boxed up. I hadn't tried holding it by the flange and striking down... it was definitely awkward and my toes were scared for their lives, but it worked.
Drago, will drop it off at the post office today... don't forget my email about the manifold/ecu!