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» Hello Spec Miata Community » Spec Miata Archives » Garage 2002-2009 » 99 Build - Brake Problem

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Author Topic: 99 Build - Brake Problem
Tvance13
Member

Car #: 85
Year : 2001
Posts: 161
Status: Offline
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Okay, just went to bleed the system after installing new Goodridge Stainless lines. We did all four corners three times each in total. In the rear (on both sides) when I crack the bleeder the pedal will move toward the floor. On the fronts when I crack the bleeder the pedal will not budge. I drove the car around the block and it has no pedal.

Any ideas on what the issue may be? Is it the Master Cylinder? I have no leaks and the brakes were fine before I changed the lines.

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http://TylerVanceRacing.com

Jamie Tucker Series Champ

ARRC 2010 Champ

Region: CFR
Car #: 97
Year : 1990/99
Posts: 788
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I thought it was only my 3 99s that did that! I had the same problem and what I did was to crack the hard line at the Master for the front. Make sure you get fluid with a slight pump and than I moved down the line checking for fluid. Once you get to the caliper it will be working. I don't know why they do that but that is how I fixed mine.

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2010 ARRC Champion
2010 CFR Champion
2010 instigator of the year
2010/2011 Andrew Von C Wingman

Tvance13
Member

Car #: 85
Year : 2001
Posts: 161
Status: Offline
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Thanks Jamie - I will try that in the AM and let you know.

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http://TylerVanceRacing.com

Tvance13
Member

Car #: 85
Year : 2001
Posts: 161
Status: Offline
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No go. I cracked the hard line and there is fluid. Fluid is also reaching the caliper. When I crack the bleeder some fluid will come out slowly and then dwindle down. Normally it would spray out with some force, but now it just kinda flows for a couple of seconds and stops coming out. I have the kid pump it up and try it again and the same thing. The pedal in the car never drops when the bleeder is open? Weird. Hoping the guys at Mazda can help me out tomorrow.

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http://TylerVanceRacing.com

Dwayne Hoover Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Bubble in front circuit. Gravity bleed front circuit while disconnected from master cylinder. Take off hard line at master or prop valve, put it in bottle of brake fluid. Open bleeders. If you have a Mityvac handy you can draw vacuum on the bleeder and forgo disconnecting the line at the master or prop valve.

Sounds like you let the master and lines drain when you changed lines. Next time find a piece of hose that fits over the line and stuff it with a golf tee, bolt, Texas flag, or some other disposable item. When changing calipers use a shouldered bolt and nut through the banjo fitting. It will leak a little but not enough to cause the mess you are in now.

-Dr. Bob

1993 Teen Honda Prelude Railroad Crossing Jumping Champion

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David Dewhurst
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The master cylinder has two seperate pistons with a spring between the two pistons. The pistons act independent of each other per say. The front piston is for the front brakes with the rear piston being for the rear brakes. When we bleed brakes we start by bleeding the longest brake line first. Once we bleed the rear brake lines (longest) removing all the air the pedal becomes solid. We then don't get a long enough front piston stroke to force the fluid to flow in the front brake lines. Try bleeding a rear line simo with each of the front lines.

^ My [twocents]

On my previous ITA car (Mazda RX7) I removed the proportioning valve. Direct rear line & two direct front lines. Installed a speed bleeder in the rear line near the master cylinder & ran the fluid back into the master cylinder. Never another issue bleeding brakes. [Wink]

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Have Fun [Wink]

David Dewhurst
CenDiv
Milwaukee Region
Spec Miata #14

Jamie Tucker Series Champ

ARRC 2010 Champ

Region: CFR
Car #: 97
Year : 1990/99
Posts: 788
Status: Offline
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So thats what causes it! You learn something everyday.
Thanks,
JT

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2010 ARRC Champion
2010 CFR Champion
2010 instigator of the year
2010/2011 Andrew Von C Wingman

   

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