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Author Topic: How many teeth on a 99 4.3?
Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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How many teeth are on the ring gear of a '99 4.3?

My '99 open diff arrived today for me to drop in my torsen. So far the package I recieved is missing the carrier and axles that were supposed to come with it. (Not sure if they're coming in a separate box or if I got screwed.)

I was going to turn the driveshaft input with the stubshafts in to count the rotations and confirm it's a 4.3 but since it's missing most of the required parts, I'd rather not disassemble my car to use the parts I have and do it that way. Does anyone know how many teeth are on a 4.3 ring gear so I can determine if I actually got the diff I was supposed to have purchased? Since I'm missing parts and I'm having trouble contacting the seller I'm sort of skeptical at this point.

[Mad]

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

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The pinion is 10 teeth and the ring gear is 43 on a 4.3

The 4.10 is 10 and 41
The 3.90 is 11 and 43, so count both gears
Jim

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Jim Drago
East Street Auto Salvage
jdrago1@aol.com
2006-2007 Mid-West Division
07,09 June Sprints Champion

EAST STREET RACING

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Thanks Jim! At least it actually is a 4.3.

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Jay Lutz
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The 4.3 for the 94-97 1.8L conversion out of a '99 is 43 and 10 teeth. Just got mine in Fedex yesterday....I checked to make sure I received the right diff. Looks to be in great shape....getting the pumpkin out of the carrier was not much fun but I only had to hit the cast iron piece HARD 3 times or so. On mine there is a small flange that is well supported on the cast iron pumpkin that you can strike with a punch and hammerwithout fearing damaging anything. Support the carrier assy over an open trash can (driveshaft flange at the lowest elevation) and give it a whack. Worked for me.

Thanks, Jay

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"In our sport if you go out of bounds you're most likely not coming back" Michael Waltrip

bpigpen
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What is a fair price for the 4.3 ?

Jay Lutz
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I paid $200 total including $50 freight from WI to IN for a 99 4.3 ratio open diff. Street car had 93k miles. I don't think I stole it at that price but I'm pretty happy. I now need to switch over the Torsen from my 4.1 which is well documented on this website.....just a little work with a dial indicator to move the ring gear laterally to achieve the desired backlash...EZ.

Go to http://www.car-parts.com .....select the year, model, I think they call it a carrier differential. Also be sure to select an open diff unless you want to pay for another Torsen...which I didn't. Thanks, Jay

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"In our sport if you go out of bounds you're most likely not coming back" Michael Waltrip

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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When I was hunting for a 4.3 open, I found a few in the $300 range. That was the cheap price but they pop up now and again.

If you use Planet Miata for a reference, they sell them for $700. Someone told me Drago has a few for a really good price but before I called I found a diff with the aluminum carrier and axles for $350 including shipping (but 20 days later I still just have the diff.)

For reference, the shipping weight on the UPS label was 60 lbs.

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Jay Lutz
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Yeah mine came with the carrier too......easier to yank out of the car intact I guess. Jay

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"In our sport if you go out of bounds you're most likely not coming back" Michael Waltrip

planet-miata.com
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quote:
Originally posted by Keith in WA:
Since I'm missing parts and I'm having trouble contacting the seller I'm sort of skeptical at this point.

[Mad]

While there are deals out there, it's huge difference when you deal with a salvage business like Drago and ourselves.

Prices might be higher, but when there's a problem, both of us can be reached easily and help in every way.

--------------------
#1 Supplier of New and Used Miata parts
http://WWW.PLANET-MIATA.COM

Marc Cefalo

#00 1996 ITA
#00 ???? SM

Drago Verified Driver Made Donation to Website Series Champ
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quote:
Originally posted by planet-miata.com:
quote:
Originally posted by Keith in WA:
Since I'm missing parts and I'm having trouble contacting the seller I'm sort of skeptical at this point.

[Mad]

While there are deals out there, it's huge difference when you deal with a salvage business like Drago and ourselves.

Prices might be higher, but when there's a problem, both of us can be reached easily and help in every way.

or actually warranty, replace or refund [Big Grin]

--------------------
Jim Drago
East Street Auto Salvage
jdrago1@aol.com
2006-2007 Mid-West Division
07,09 June Sprints Champion

EAST STREET RACING

Blake Clements Verified Driver Series Champ
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quote:
Originally posted by Drago:
quote:
Originally posted by planet-miata.com:
quote:
Originally posted by Keith in WA:
Since I'm missing parts and I'm having trouble contacting the seller I'm sort of skeptical at this point.

[Mad]

While there are deals out there, it's huge difference when you deal with a salvage business like Drago and ourselves.

Prices might be higher, but when there's a problem, both of us can be reached easily and help in every way.

or actually warranty, replace or refund [Big Grin]
Do you warrant front bumpers? [Wink]

--------------------
Blake Clements

PhillipsRacePrep/SP Induction Systems/East Street Racing/MiataCage.com/Carbotech/WBR Graphics

www.blakeclements.com

Drago Verified Driver Made Donation to Website Series Champ
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quote:
Originally posted by Blake Clements:
quote:
Originally posted by Drago:
quote:
Originally posted by planet-miata.com:
quote:
Originally posted by Keith in WA:
Since I'm missing parts and I'm having trouble contacting the seller I'm sort of
skeptical at this point.

[Mad]

While there are deals out there, it's huge difference when you deal with a salvage business like Drago and ourselves.

Prices might be higher, but when there's a problem, both of us can be reached easily and help in every way.

or actually warranty, replace or refund [Big Grin]
Do you warrant front bumpers? [Wink]
you #$%^&*()_+!!!

You knocked that thing off...
[Big Grin]

--------------------
Jim Drago
East Street Auto Salvage
jdrago1@aol.com
2006-2007 Mid-West Division
07,09 June Sprints Champion

EAST STREET RACING

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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quote:
Originally posted by planet-miata.com:
]While there are deals out there, it's huge difference when you deal with a salvage business like Drago and ourselves.

Prices might be higher, but when there's a problem, both of us can be reached easily and help in every way. [/QB]

Too true. Dealing with no-name sellers on ebay you need to be ready for some serious aggravation.
(I got the axles today. I think I joined the drive train part of the month club by mistake. [Roll Eyes] )

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

soupy
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work with these all the time. Here is a rule of thumb: Divide the number of teeth on the ring gear by the number of teeth on the pinion.
43 Div. by 10 makes it a 4.30
43 div. by 11 makes it a 3.91 (most mfg. round the number out) 3.90
and so forth

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Charlie Campbell
Race Engineering
carbotech brakes

Jay Lutz
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Can anyone help as I'm having trouble removing the diff pumpkin. Must I remove the aluminum powerplant frame that links the trans and diff. It looks like I can sneak it out ......but so far it won'f budge. I have dropped the exhaust, driveshaft, halfshafts, the 2 long bolts, all of the pumpkin bolts. Help!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks, Jay

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"In our sport if you go out of bounds you're most likely not coming back" Michael Waltrip

David Dewhurst
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***Must I remove the aluminum powerplant frame that links the trans and diff. It looks like I can sneak it out ......but so far it won'f budge.***

You refer to the two long bolts you removed. Are those two bolts the PPF bolts? Did you pull the sleeve downward that is in the front PPF/pumpkin hole. Take a look at your factory workshop manual & there are instructions for how to pull the sleeve down. I presume you have removed the big headed flange bushing from the lower front front hole. Once you get the PPF moved sideways it might be a bitch to seperate the pumpkin from the diff. housing. So I'v read on this site. I never had an issue seperating the two.

--------------------
Have Fun [Wink]

David Dewhurst
CenDiv
Milwaukee Region
Spec Miata #14

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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I'm not exactly sure what you're trying to do but it sounds like you're just trying to remove the diff and you can't get the PPF off first. (I drop it with the aluminum carrier personally and separate the carrier from the diff once they're out.)

Assuming that the PPF is stuck on the diff, once you remove the long bolts and that lower bushing like part, there is a special splined nut-like that goes in the top of the PPF and down into the top of the diff. It's spined so it has an interference fit with the diff and PPF. You have to put the long bolts back in the holes, and hit them upward with a hammer so they press the special nuts up and out of the diff. (Thanks to Dave W. for posting that long ago. I got stumped by that one.)

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Jay Lutz
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yes I have pried out the front lower interference sleeve in the PPF. My question is: do I need to drop the long aluminum PPF (links trans to the diff) and/or the aluminum carrier the diff mounts to (includes the fill and drain plugs)?? I'd like to NOT drop these 2 units and just slip the diff forward and out but it is a tight fit. Am I just creating more work for myself by not dropping the PPF and carrier? Thanks, Jay

--------------------
"In our sport if you go out of bounds you're most likely not coming back" Michael Waltrip

jrw67 Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Jay...You don't have to remove the PPF but you will need to at least move it to the pass. side to get the diff out.It is easier if you put a jack under the bottom of the transmission and remove all but the forward bolt connecting the PPF to the trans(loosen the forward bolt)
Once re-assembled align driveline angle per FSM or mark shifter height before removing PPF and return to same height..hope this helps...Jim Warinner

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Jay, I think you are creating more work for yourself that way. Removing the PPF once the back is unbolted is a 2 minute job and gets one large obstacle out of the way.

The diff can be hard to separate from the alum. carrier due to the RTV sealant between the two and it weighs about 60#. It's and odd shape and there's no good way to support it alone from the bottom as far as I can tell. Add confined space, heavy akward diff, some brute force [Smash] to separate the two and you're risking dropping the diff on your head once it breaks free. Then you're going to have to lift that heavy akward SOB back into place, align it and secure the bolts.

If you have a trans jack, you can put that under the whole diff carrier assembly, drop the whole unit safely, and you have ample room to separate the two.

If you don't have a trans jack, you can support each arm of the carrier with a jack stand using a jack under the center if necessary to take the weight off as you lower each side, and get it out safely that way although it's more time consuming.

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Jay Lutz
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quote:
Originally posted by Keith in WA:
I'm not exactly sure what you're trying to do but it sounds like you're just trying to remove the diff and you can't get the PPF off first. (I drop it with the aluminum carrier personally and separate the carrier from the diff once they're out.)

Assuming that the PPF is stuck on the diff, once you remove the long bolts and that lower bushing like part, there is a special splined nut-like that goes in the top of the PPF and down into the top of the diff. It's spined so it has an interference fit with the diff and PPF. You have to put the long bolts back in the holes, and hit them upward with a hammer so they press the special nuts up and out of the diff. (Thanks to Dave W. for posting that long ago. I got stumped by that one.)

Keith- I pulled the entire PPF/diff/carrier assembly out of the car and it is on the garage floor next to the car. So far I can't get the long aluminum PPF disconnected from the diff. I have not tried putting the long bolts back in their holes and punching out the splined nuts ....since my owners manual says DO NOT pry out or remove the UPPER front stepped spacer from the upper bolt holes. The note says: " Caution: Don't remove the spacers from the upper side of the torque arm. This will degrade the performance of the torque arm and the the entire assembly will have to be replaced.

If I don't do this or something similar I can see no way to separate the diff and PFF as on the top the PFF is keyed to the steel block and the diff and on the bottom the diff is keyed to the cast iron cast differential mounting spacer....so I have to remove the upper splined nuts or pry the PFF apart 5 or 6 mm. Help! I must be missing something really obvious as this is a pretty simple problem.

My manual talks about threading an M14x1.5 bolt into the bottom of the sleeve, then use it as a handle twisting and pulling to free the sleeve....but there are no threads to engage an M15 x1.5 thread on my diff, spacer at top or bottom....so this trick is meaningless. I have my 99 diff to study these details but so far it hasn't really helped. This should be simple!

Thanks, Jay

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"In our sport if you go out of bounds you're most likely not coming back" Michael Waltrip

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The early diff sleeves were threaded. Later ones, not. So if you can draw the sleeve down with vice grips or a chisel then you can skip knocking the upper threaded sleeves out. You could try tapping the sleeve to accept a bolt or just using a tap the grab the sleeve to pull it out, but that seems like a wasted effort to me. I do not believe the later factory manuals have the same warning as there really isn't another way.

PS. Do ensure that you have pulled the lower locating dowel as that is 1/2 the fight.

David Dewhurst
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Jay, insert the two long PPF/diff bolts several threads into the knurled round nuts that are pressed into the top of the PPF. Whack the bolt heads with a hammer to pop the knurled round nuts out of the PPF. The PPF should now fall off. You are not the first person that knocked the knurled round PPF nuts out & you will not be the last person to do the same. [Big Grin] My workshop manual says the same thing.

Call Dave Wheeler at Advanced Autosports 1-608-313-1230

--------------------
Have Fun [Wink]

David Dewhurst
CenDiv
Milwaukee Region
Spec Miata #14

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Jay-
I've popped those upper stepped spacers (I guess that's what they're called) many times. They seem as tight today as they did the first time I popped them out. In fact it still takes a pretty good hard whack to pop them loose. As far as I know it's standard operating procedure.

Don't know about the early years but with the difs you and I have, I'm honestly not sure how you could separate the two without popping it out for the same reasons you explained. They're essentially riveted together at the top with those things in.

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Jay Lutz
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Finished the job today....the car is back on the ground....had to pop the 2 topped stepped spacers out with a hammer. EZ once you do that. Damned shop manual...should have bought the factory Mazda manual. Thanks for everyones help. Jay

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"In our sport if you go out of bounds you're most likely not coming back" Michael Waltrip

   

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