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Author Topic: Michron 3 Installation Help
Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
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I'm trying to set up my AIM system and not having too much luck with the manual. Basic setup. I have a water temp sensor, oil pressure, tach, lap timer, and I think a speed sensor.

What I think is the speed sensor has me confused. It looks like the bike speed sensor. Where the heck do you attach these things??? Since the wheels turn at different rates I'm thinking on the drive shaft somewhere and wthe software lets me convert drive shaft RPM into speed. [help]

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Richard Pressman Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Year : 1991
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Sounds similar to our karting Mychron-3 which we now use in the car. Get two small (1/8") rare earth magnets from Radio Shack fastened 180 degrees apart on the drive shaft. Fab up a mount for the sensor so that it's positioned about 1/4" away. Work out the diff ratio and tire circumference and you should be good to go.

Good luck.

BTW, remember to set the Mychron for two impulses per revolution of the drive shaft. Ask me how I know!

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
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Thanks Richard. That makes sense. I don't know how well the drive shafts are balanced but two magnets solves that issue.

I can imagine what would happen if you don't tell the brain 2 pulses per rev... Look it says right here I was going 215 mph!! [Smile]

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

seege Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Year : Thinking on that.... ok done 99
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quote:
Originally posted by Richard Pressman:
Sounds similar to our karting Mychron-3 which we now use in the car. Get two small (1/8") rare earth magnets from Radio Shack fastened 180 degrees apart on the drive shaft. Fab up a mount for the sensor so that it's positioned about 1/4" away. Work out the diff ratio and tire circumference and you should be good to go.

Good luck.

BTW, remember to set the Mychron for two impulses per revolution of the drive shaft. Ask me how I know!

Any reason other than balance to use 2 magnets? I've been using one for a couple years with no problems. I would guesstimate a rare earth mag weighs next to nothing..

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-CJ Johnson

Mark Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Backup. If one falls off or gets knocked off you can simply reprogram for one magnet vs two.

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Mark
http://www.ironcanyonmotorsports.com

Jay Lutz
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Region: Indy
Car #: 33
Year : 1994
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Actually.....using 1 magnet vs 2 might be a bit of an advantage for 1 case. If you don't position the magnets EXACTLY 180 degrees apart for the same driveshaft speed you will get 2 different speeds. This can be accounted for in the software by averaging 2 successive data point (I think AIM calls it data averaging). I used 2 magnets driven off the speedo drive on the tailshaft, did the averaging thing......and it works great. Thanks, Jay

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"In our sport if you go out of bounds you're most likely not coming back" Michael Waltrip

johnh23
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Region: central nj
Car #: under construction
Year : 1996
Posts: 42
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you can use a micron 3 from a kart that will save me from getting a new one

Roger Caddell Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Year : 2007
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Keith,

Give me a call with any questions you may have on your install, love to help the #88 SM from the Northwest!! :-) PM me if you need the number.

--------------------
Thanks!

Roger Caddell

Victory Lane Data - Your Aim Data Acquisition Connection!
Andrew Caddell - Personal Website!

Greg Bush Verified Driver
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Region: NW/OR
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Year : 90
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Keith,

You can look at either of my cars. One is even in the air right now (with parts of your diff underneath it for safe keeping).

Without using science or math, I think 2 magnets are better. With one, there is more time between data points for things to change. (I used the word "data" but in a non-scientific way).

Greg

johnh23
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Region: central nj
Car #: under construction
Year : 1996
Posts: 42
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Rodger,

Can you help me convert my mycron 3 kart to car please what cables do i needand do i have to change software

Roger Caddell Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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No conversion needed, the kart gauges biggest issue is the RPM is inductive. This can work but on a SM it has been problematic. Just zip tie the rpm lead onto one of your plug wires and try it out. I have seen some work great and others that struggled and worked after laying it across 2 wires.

The other issue is that kart gauges are temp only so you will not have any pressure sensors.

The lap timer works just the same as all other AiM gauges and even uses the same trackside beacon so that is no problem.

The data files are downloaded into the same Race Studio software as the rest of the Aim data systems others are using at your local track and your data can be compared against them just fine.

--------------------
Thanks!

Roger Caddell

Victory Lane Data - Your Aim Data Acquisition Connection!
Andrew Caddell - Personal Website!

Greg Bush Verified Driver
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Region: NW/OR
Car #: 04
Year : 90
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I was in the same boat. I found it easier to sell the M3 and get an M3 Auto Gold from Roger.

Without the extra box the install was easier too.

I got the indictive RPM to work on my old Drack, but it took a lot of trial and error, the M3 would be the same.

johnh23
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Region: central nj
Car #: under construction
Year : 1996
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Thanks guys ill try mine for now because trying to finish my car and putting money were i need it to get on the track but i will give you a call roger when it time to get a new one thanks again for your help

john

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Year : 95
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Roger,
A big thanks to you and Ruth. You two are A#1 top notch!! You might have mentioned that you have pics of a SM install on your website though. Would have saved me a bit of time staring at things in the wee hours but the good news is when I found the pics I could say...yeah that's about how I did it too. [rolling on floor laughin] I'll probably have more questions. Nice to know who to call. [Smile]

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

pat slattery Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Try wrapping a piece of fuel line around the spark plug wire and than zip tie your inductive rpm wire to the fuel line but do not have the wire touch the spark plug and see if it doesn't work better

--------------------
keeping the faith for the 1.6

Arrow Karts

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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I had the luxury of my car being mostly disassembled so it was easy to reach everything but for future reference, here's the way I laid it all out with advice from about 8 sources...

I spliced into the wire for the diag box for the tach because I know the tach wire to my OEM cluster is kinda clustered.

I spliced power off the blue connector over the LF wheel where I also power my transponder and timing light. That made it easy to run both wires in through the hole in the firewall where the cruise control cable goes with a rubber gromet in the hole to prevent chewing up the wires. Nice clean installation.

The beacon reciever is attached to the roll cage pointed out the RH wing window because that's the side for my home tracks. The cable is almost twice as long as the windshield is wide so if I want to move it to the other side, I have the extra wire coiled behind the glove box and I can route it back over to the LHS by taping the wire to the top of the dash.

The oil sender goes in one of the AC tubing holes, and the speedo cable runs down the top of the trans tunnel and under the shift boot to the drive shaft. (I thought about drilling another hole for a cleaner installation and said screw it.)

I replaced the stock cluster with a face plate from Roger, and added turn signals and a high beam light spliced off the instrument cluster harness so I don't run a session like a dork with my turn signal on or dazzling people in the rain.

The plugs behind the face plate are all labled so I don't forget where they go, and I wired in disconnects with insulating shields so they don't all short each other out but the next time I pull the dash it will be easy to disconnect everything.

Overall, not too tough and a pretty slick setup. Thanks everyone!
[thumbsup]

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Spence Gatrell
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Region: Oregon
Car #: 27
Year : 1991
Posts: 23
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The RPM signal on a miata..

4-50v (blue) or 150-450v (white).

Is the signal at the dash the same as at the diagnostic port?

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When in doubt.. Stand on it!

Roger Caddell Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Victory Lane Data

Region: Northwest
Car #: #30
Year : 2007
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Spence,

4-50v (blue) and yes it is the same.

--------------------
Thanks!

Roger Caddell

Victory Lane Data - Your Aim Data Acquisition Connection!
Andrew Caddell - Personal Website!

Spence Gatrell
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Region: Oregon
Car #: 27
Year : 1991
Posts: 23
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There isn't a terminal on the gauge cluster labeled tach.

The two terminals i think might be correct..
h (TM)
F (RSW)

Any clues?

--------------------
When in doubt.. Stand on it!

Spence Gatrell
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Region: Oregon
Car #: 27
Year : 1991
Posts: 23
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Haynes manual shows..

Tach in the cluster has three wires

Blk/Yel - to fuse block (not it)
Blk - common ground (not it)
Yel/Blu - to igniter (gotta be it)

--------------------
When in doubt.. Stand on it!

   

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