Spec Miata Community   
search | help | calendar | games | forum home

  next oldest topic   next newest topic
» Hello Spec Miata Community » SpecMiata.com » Spec Miata Garage » Not firing on 1 & 4???

 - Email this page to someone! | Subscribe To Topic  
Author Topic: Not firing on 1 & 4???
jj15ball
Member

Region: SE
Car #: 15
Year : 90
Posts: 70
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for jj15ball     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

Ok, I pulled a motor and tranny out of a 92' with 78K on it. Good compression, but the engine wouldn't run above 400 rpm. Gave me code #14, bad ECU (Barometric Sensor). It was a good thing it didn't run either because the guy who owned it parked it under a tree and mice were living in the intake. The actually chewed through the filter and got through the Flow Meter. So just in case, I pulled the intake and exhaust manifolds, and then the head. Found some achorns in the intake runners. Replace the head gasket, replaced the timing belt, swapped my clutch and dropped the engine in.

Reversed the fuel lines again, but this time it only took me 2 minutes to realize it [Smile] . Once I primed the fuel rail, I had leaks at each injector, so I replaced all of the gaskets multiple times before it finally stopped leaking, ugh!!!

So now it fires up and shakes bad. Put a timing light on it and its bouncing for 10-14 degrees. But it sounds like its running a cylinder light. So I pulled each plug wire 1 at a time and #3 & #4 have little affect on it. So, I figure the injectors are plugged because its been sitting for over a year because the wires are arcing once they are off the plug. Swapped #3 & #4 out with the those from the old engine because I know they work. Well, there's no difference. So I tried swapping plug wires out, no difference. So I checked resistance on the primary coil and its around .9/1.6 ohms, secondary is 12.2/12 k Ohms, so I swapped out the coil but the second coil is similar .9/1.5 ohms primary, 13.4/13.6 k secondary. And it doesn't run any better except #1 and #4 wires have little affect on the the engine. Are both coils bad, primary resistance is higher than spec, but secondary is in range?Plug wires should be 4-1-2-3 from right to left??? ECU is a 90'. Should I swap the CAS??? What am I doing wrong???

--------------------
Jason Ball

jj15ball
Member

Region: SE
Car #: 15
Year : 90
Posts: 70
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for jj15ball     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

Oh yeah, I swapped the injector out harness too. No change.

--------------------
Jason Ball

jprather
Member

Region: Kansas
Year : 1990
Posts: 35
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for jprather   Author's Homepage     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

Sounds like a coil pack issue. It's a wasted spark setup and 1 and 4 fire off of the same coil at the same time. Good luck!

jj15ball
Member

Region: SE
Car #: 15
Year : 90
Posts: 70
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for jj15ball     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

Problem is, the old engine ran just fine with the first coil 2 weeks ago.

--------------------
Jason Ball

Dave Lewis
Member

Region: detroit
Car #: 17
Year : 1991
Posts: 293
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for Dave Lewis     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

Had exactly the same problem a couple of weeks ago. Turned out to be a bad ignitor. $50 used at the usual places.

Mr ED
Member

Region: lonestar
Car #: 11
Year : 90
Posts: 166
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for Mr ED     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

Trace your grounds out of the coil, it sounds like 1/2 the coil is not functioning, the ecu controls ground switching to make them fire the plug. You should also check to see if the injectors for the same cylinders are firing as they are also triggered in conjunction with the coil. Also check all you grounds on the engine, the ones frim the injector harness at the back of the fuel rail and the main one to the engine bay from the back of the motor to under the master cyl area.
Get a wire diagram and follow the circuit, it will come clear.
Hope this helps [Big Grin]

Ed

--------------------
Old enough to know better, still young enough not to care!
ww.gilfusracing.com

jj15ball
Member

Region: SE
Car #: 15
Year : 90
Posts: 70
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for jj15ball     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

I still have spark at all 4 cylinders. When I pull the plug wires they arc in the head as I pull them out. All my grounds are good. I will check them again.

--------------------
Jason Ball

Johnny D Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Hot Member

Region: SFR
Car #: 88 SM
Year : 99
Posts: 367
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for Johnny D     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

I had something like that.
In my case, I was told the Harmonic Balancer Plate was on backwards.
J~

cintibob
Member

Region: cfr
Car #: 13
Year : 1990
Posts: 105
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for cintibob     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

In the spec miata construction manual it says not to pull plug wires off plug and crank engine that it may damage coil,igniter or computer please use a spark checker instead.

davew Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Veteran Member

Region: chicago
Car #: 72 and ?
Year : 90 and 90
Posts: 1051
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for davew   Author's Homepage     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

As cintibob said, use a spark tester.

Electricity is lazy. A coil will only produce as much voltage as it needs to jump the gap. If it needs 5000v, it makes 5000v. If it needs 50,000, it makes 50,000.

By removing a plug wire you are creating a big gap, which requires big voltage. When you create too big of a gap, All that voltage has to find a place to go. Since you pulled the plug wire, it will look elsewhere.

The easiest path is back throught the primary side of the coil (coil is now junk) and then to igniter and/or ECU.

And it only takes 1 spark or about 1/20th of a second.

Dave

--------------------
Advanced Autosports, The Midwests leader in Spec Miata Service, Parts and Rentals
608-313-1230
Authorised Spec Miata service center
www.advanced-autosports.com

jj15ball
Member

Region: SE
Car #: 15
Year : 90
Posts: 70
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for jj15ball     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

Ok, so I might have fried the coil, igniter, and/or the ecu. What is the real problem? Cause everything I have done so far doesn't seem to affect how poorly it runs. Pulling wires was the last thing I did. And it still runs the same. Timing belt maybe???

--------------------
Jason Ball

jj15ball
Member

Region: SE
Car #: 15
Year : 90
Posts: 70
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for jj15ball     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

Ok, rechecked the timing belt installation and found it off 1 tooth. It runs a bit better now, but the CAS is still pushed all the way forward against the stop to get to 10 degrees. Is it possible that the CAS is rotated 180 degrees off?

--------------------
Jason Ball

mdavis Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Member

Region: Southwest
Car #: 45
Year : 1991-sold,95,99
Posts: 140
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for mdavis     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

Had the same problem in June at the Sprints with a 95. Dave was a pretty good help. It was-as Ed said in his post- 1/2 of the coil that was bad. Swapped it out with a Labounty spare and it ran fine. Hopefully I've given proper credit [Smile]

--------------------
Matthew F. Davis
Texas Region SCCA

Chris Haldeman
Member

Region: texas
Car #: 71,72
Year : 1990,1999
Posts: 166
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for Chris Haldeman     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

you are still off 1 more tooth.have had the same problem.

Chris Haldeman
Member

Region: texas
Car #: 71,72
Year : 1990,1999
Posts: 166
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for Chris Haldeman     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

also the cas is an off set slot so it cannot be off.

jj15ball
Member

Region: SE
Car #: 15
Year : 90
Posts: 70
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for jj15ball     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

That's what I thought, the "t" only fits into the cam one way. Guess I'll see if I can find another coil pack tomorrow.

--------------------
Jason Ball

Chris Haldeman
Member

Region: texas
Car #: 71,72
Year : 1990,1999
Posts: 166
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for Chris Haldeman     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

i have a coil pack you can try but i think you are still off a tooth on the intake cam atleast if not both.check that there are 19 teeth between lines on the 2 cam gears before you start swapping more parts.i will pm my cell number incase you need the coilpack.

jj15ball
Member

Region: SE
Car #: 15
Year : 90
Posts: 70
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for jj15ball     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

I've swapped the coil pack, igniter, and ECU. None of these change how it runs. I rechecked the timing again and moved it 1 tooth. Now I can only get 9 degrees with the CAS all the way to the stop.

--------------------
Jason Ball

jj15ball
Member

Region: SE
Car #: 15
Year : 90
Posts: 70
Status: Offline
Icon 1 posted  Profile for jj15ball     Edit/Delete Post  Report this post to a Moderator

Moved the belt back 1 tooth. Get 12 degrees of timing around the center of the CAS slot. Still runs rough. Flipped the balancer plate and no visible change. Guess I'll take it for a test drive and see what it does.

--------------------
Jason Ball

   

   Close Topic   Feature Topic   Move Topic   Delete Topic next oldest topic   next newest topic
 - Printer-friendly view of this topic | Subscribe To Topic
Hop To: