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Author Topic: Lower ignition coil bolt
Mark McCallister Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Just graduated from novice to rookie!!

Region: Central Florida
Car #: 40
Year : 1991
Posts: 393
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Hi all, well, I picked up my 91 donor this weekend and have been fooling with it since! My factory and enthusiast's shop manuals are on order, so I apologize for my cluelessness... Anyway, the computer was showing faults on the ignition coil and water temp sender, so I figured I would go ahead and replace those. Well after messing with it for an hour, I finally managed to get that lower bolt off the coil pack. I could not figure out how to get a wrench on that bolt, and despite removing a fair amount of skin from the back of my hand, I couldn't get more than the tips of two fingers on it (but fortunately that was sufficient, since it wasn't even finger tight!). When the engine is off, can I disconnect the heater hoses from the firewall without dumping water out? It looks like that would help get my hand/wrench in there, but I was chicken to do it. Thanks!

Jim Daniels
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Yes you can, leave the rad cap on, very little will spill, work fast, bolt is hard for us all.

Grats on getting in SM!!

Jim Boemler Verified Driver
Veteran Member

Region: NWR, OR
Car #: 30
Year : 1992
Posts: 8523
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You'd lose some water out the hoses, but that's not the bad part. The bad part is that if you're not really careful with the hoses, you'll create a leak by bending the copper tubing, and it's the devil to get it round enough to seal again afterwards.

For me, I decided to always cut the hose off the copper tubing rather than trying to twist it off. So bottom line is that your method would cost you something, but it would make it somewhat easier. A swivel gear-wrench also helps, and only costs once.

jim

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Just a clown

jwalter Verified Driver Made Donation to Website Series Champ
Member

Region: SE
Car #: 79
Year : 1991
Posts: 134
Status: Offline
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Like I said in an earlier post, go at it with a grinder.

Pull the bushing out of the bracket and trim the "wings" off the bolt "hole."

If you grind them down to allow sliding the coil pack onto/into the bushing, it makes life much easier.

I found an old coil bracket I had lying around.
http://www.waltermotorsports.com/v/Racing/Miata/bracket1.jpg.html
I would actually gring a little more than shown here.
Round the edges to make installation easier.
After you're done grinding give it a little squirt of paint for rust prevention.

With the coil pack out, loosely install the bolt and bushing on the back of the head.
Slide the coil package onto the bushing.

Like Jim said, a gear wrench with the flex head makes life really easy. (also in a lot of other places)

Or you could try installing a thin lock bolt, but with the gear wrench you don't need to.

Technically this is illegal, but if anyone protests the 1oz I've trimmed, it would be the biggest weenie protest ever. [Smile]

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--Jeff Walter
#79 SSM

www.waltermotorsports.com

hawke Verified Driver
Member

Region: steel cities
Year : 1990
Posts: 304
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Whats wrong with just leaving it off? I have been doing that for two seasons the top two bolts hold it secure.

JD Morris Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
A slower JD...

Region: SF
Car #: RIP #56
Year : --
Posts: 663
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I left my lower bolt off and eventually one of the ears on the top bracket broke. Now the coil pack is more or less held in by one bolt. If you don't spend as much time launching your car off curbs and trying rally cross in the weeds as I do, your results may be better.

Mark McCallister Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Just graduated from novice to rookie!!

Region: Central Florida
Car #: 40
Year : 1991
Posts: 393
Status: Offline
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Thanks for the great advice! I picked up a couple flex-handle ratchets (one short, one long) that between them did the trick, and avoided messing with the plumbing. I still didn't like the way that lower bolt went back in (I think the last guy to do it clobbered the threads, which explains why it was hardly finger tight when I went to take it off), but it seems good and solid between the three bolts. Now, I'm going to go fix some things under the car since there's so much more room under there! [Smile] Or maybe I should wait for those service manuals to arrive...nah... [Big Grin]

jbenoit28 Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Region: CFR
Car #: 28
SMIM: .
Posts: 249
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Sorry to bring back such an old and dusty thread but I just ran into a similar issue. I was prepping my car this past weekend and noticed the coil pack looked funny. I checked it out and the passenger side bolt was missing and the ear on the drivers side had the bolt but was cracked off of the main bracket that I'm guessing holds the coils? There was no bolt behind the head at all. Is this a part that you can get from a local auto supply house? Can I just transfer the coil pack to the new bracket or is it an entire assembly. Anybody know the proper bolt sizes to use for the ears and also behind the head?

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Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
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Theyíre a standard size bolt but I try to go with the Mazda bolts whenever possible. The hardware store ones have different head sizes and usually require a washer to lose in inaccessible places so itís no longer a 10,12,13,14,17, and 19mm wrench to tear down the whole car. An angled ratcheting 13mm is great for the coil.

I donít have the bolt in front of me to give you the size but if nobody has it by tonight, my motor is sitting on the floor so I can measure it easily enough.

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

jbenoit28 Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Region: CFR
Car #: 28
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Thank Keith. Are all three the same size? Do you know where to get the bracket aside from Mazda Motorsports?

Could you also remove the Cold Weather Hex you put on me? I'm sorry already! I shouldn't have made fun of the crappy weather up North! I've been freezing my Coconuts off since January....might have to do a few shots of Antifreeze to keep my thin Florida blood from freezing. [laughing]

Joe

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SAE113 Verified Driver
Member

Region: Central Florida
Car #: 01 & 99
Year : '92 & '94
Posts: 137
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quote:
Originally posted by jbenoit28:
Could you also remove the Cold Weather Hex you put on me? I'm sorry already! I shouldn't have made fun of the crappy weather up North! I've been freezing my Coconuts off since January....might have to do a few shots of Antifreeze to keep my thin Florida blood from freezing. [laughing]

Joe

so all this frigid weather is your fault joe [shame]

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Steven Elicati
'92 Protege ITA#01
'94 Miata ITA#99

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
Posts: 2000
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The lower bolt is longer than the other two. I've never seen the bracket available by itself. Mazda doesn't show it in their parts catalog. You might be stuck with local salvage yards or borrowing someone's spare for this weekend. The coil itself is a spendy part. If you could find a dead coil with a usable bracket, you'd be in business. You might try calling places like East Street to see if they have one laying around.

I'll see what I can do about the weather. It might take a month or two though. [Smile]

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Qik Nip Verified Driver Made Donation to Website Series Champ
Loose Member '09 & '10 Great Lakes Regional Points Champion

Region: Cincinnati Great Lakes
Car #: 60
Year : 1990
Posts: 1487
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quote:
Originally posted by Keith in WA:
An angled ratcheting 13mm is great for the coil.

I bought a set of these jobbies two years ago, and don't know how I got along this far in life without them! If you don't own a set, go buy one. Best $60 I ever spent on a tool. (The critical part is the articulating or swiveling head.)
Rick

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Fortune Cookie Racing SM 60
Directions for use: Race, Rumple, Repair ... Repeat!

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
Posts: 2000
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The bolts are 8 x 1.25 (fine pitch). I need a proper thread pitch gauge. Counting them makes my eyes go all buggy.

The bottom bolt is 30mm long including the captured washer and the 1st 4mm isn't threaded.

The upper bolts are 20mm with no washer and the 1st 4mm isn't threaded. They're a 12mm head. (The 13 is the CAS) If you have an AC pump in a box somewhere, it conviniently includes 2 almost identical bolts.

On my '95 I sometimes loosen the front of the PPF, jack the trans all the way up to get at those bolts but since owning a Miata I now have an impressive collection of tools for getting in tight spots and at odd angles.

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Greg Bush Verified Driver
Thread Killer

Region: NW/OR
Car #: 04
Year : 90
Posts: 1765
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I slotted the lower hole in the bracket.

That way I only remove the 2 top bolts and the bottom bolt stays in place, and the bushing stays on it.

Easy cheesey and no contortion required.

jbenoit28 Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Region: CFR
Car #: 28
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Thanks for all of the info guys. I'll be putting it to use this weekend.

Joe

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