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Author Topic: Best studs to use?
Adroitracer Verified Driver
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ART or ARP? Which to use and why?

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CP Verified Driver
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Call me if you learn the ARP studs are the ones to have and I'll add them to your box of parts.

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-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
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Dennis Clark Verified Driver
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On my rears, the splined shoulder of the ART stud protrudes slightly through the hub. Some rotors are chamfered but some are not and those will not sit flat against the hub. The ARP studs shoulder does not stick thru. So with ART you need to buy the right rotors or chamfer the rotors a little, with the ARP you can use any rotor without modification.

Dennis

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3D Racing
Team Scrappy, car # 27

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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There are also the ones MiataCage sells that are an additional 3/4" longer allowing use with big spacers for enduros and such.

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Mitch Taylor
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Just did the ARP good quality product not ultra light but heavy duty and much longer than other studs I have seen, the rear hubs had to come off the car for the studs to be replaced.

Mitch Taylor
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no shoulder issues or problems with the rotors, 1.6 1990 car with original style rear hubs.

Todd Greene Made Donation to Website
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I have the ART with the black coating.
They are only 1 month or so old.
They seem to rust very easily.
After one day of trailering in the rain, some have surface rust.

I suspect that after a good coating of pad and rotor dust, they'll rust more.

Todd

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I sell a LOT of ARP studs, so admitedly I am biased.

I have replaced a lot of black studs (manufacturer not specified cause I really don't know) after they come loose at the track. Never replaced an ARP stud.

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Gatoratty Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Used ARP and just hammered them in and pulled them home with the impact. Hubs on a 1.6 don't have to come off.

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Paul McLester

Adroitracer Verified Driver
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Any disadvantage to using stock studs? This is assuming that I do not use spacers.

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Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Stock studs are easier to cross thread if you're not a bit more careful. Plus some wheels are thicker than others at the hubs so not as much stud sticks through. One rule of thumb for nuts in general is you should have as much thread engagement as the thickness of the bolt. The one I prefer is the bolt/stud should always protrude a minimum of 2 threads out of the nut. You can't get 2 threads with most of my wheels using stock studs.

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

B Wilson Verified Driver Series Champ
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I prefer the ART speed tip studs sold by Saferacer. We don't pre thread the lugnuts, just stuff them in the impact and zip on with never a cross thread.

-bw

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Bruce Wilson
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Dwayne Hoover Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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quote:
Originally posted by Adroitracer:
ART or ARP? Which to use and why?

Tennessee studs, because Johnny Cash said so.

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Mike Kelly
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Are the ARP the same knurl and diameter as the stock studs or do you have to re-drill the hole?

Mike

Dennis Clark Verified Driver
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ARP are same as stock as far as the hole in the hub is concerned. Just press or tap the stock out and press new in (or pull thru with a nut and impact gun). On my 1.8 I changed the rears with the hubs on the car.

Dennis

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3D Racing
Team Scrappy, car # 27

nealb
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I went to change the rear studs on my 1.6 with ARP studs, but couldn't see how to get the old shorter ones out

pressed them with a ball joint pressing tool, got it loose, but couldn't get it out from the tight fit around the hub

what trick did I miss?

Gatoratty Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Use a big hammer and knock them out works great. Put the new ones in the same way and then tighten using a lug nut and impact.

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Paul McLester

Jamie Tucker Series Champ

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Oh! I thought this thread was about me. Carry on!

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Jamie Tucker Series Champ

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Don't forget to spin the rear hubs to the sweet spot so they will come out.

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2010 ARRC Champion
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nealb
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thanks for the hints, but I cannot find any sweet spot to work the shoulder of the stud past the dust cover lip

rotated the hub all the way around and just made a shiny spot where the stud shoulder rubbed off the dirt

If I take off the axle nut, and pull the hub out an inch or so, is there anything inside to fall apart or be harmed?

Jamie Tucker Series Champ

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The studs will come out and there is no need to take off the axel. It is a very small sweet spot but it is there.

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Chris70 Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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left rear around 3 o`clock
right rear around 8 o`clock

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"Talent is often perseverance in disguise"

nealb
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thanks, I'll try again tomorrow

I saw that spot on RR and wondered about drilling a hole in the dust plate

GM backing plates have a hole in them for that purpose

nealb
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thanks, but guess I'm not very mechanically inclined after all

don't see any way in the world for the RR to come off at about 8:00

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm62/nealbell/IMG_4171.jpg

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm62/nealbell/IMG_4173.jpg

thought I could bang it out at about 3:00 but no luck there

Muda Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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You gotta cut a hole in or get rid of those dust shields.

I have a couple of sets of the ART studs and like them a lot.

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Muda Motorsports
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trimless1 Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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+1 on getting rid of the dust shields.

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Gale Corley
99 SM GRE Super Deluxe
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Get rid of the dust shields...use a cutoff wheel if needed for now.

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Paul McLester

   

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