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Author Topic: When to change brake pads?
skrzastek
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Region: Blue Ridge Region
Car #: #91
Year : 1992
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How low do you let your brake pads get before replacement?

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#91 SSM

Dr.Dan Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
V8, nice! And good for you too!

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I only go to 3/16-1/4 in. left. I use Carbotech. Arguable

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Daniel Mairani DDS...still here, just faster.
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Richard Pressman Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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If the wear is even - about 1/8".

If the pads start to get wedge-shaped - when it causes the calipers to start binding and not fully releasing the rotor. ie: raise front wheel off ground and spin. If it's nice and free, no worries. If it is starting to drag, new brakes.

Works for us. YMMV

Have been using PFC-97 the last few times. My driver thinks they are a good compromise between Hawk and Carbotech.

CP Verified Driver
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When the white powder on the sides gets to the backing plate.

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-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA
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John A - 5X Racing Verified Driver
www.5xracing.com

Region: NASA FL / CFR SCCA
Car #: 25
Year : 1991
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As long as your pedal doesn't get too low, you can go pretty far on a set of Carbotechs. They should be checked at the shop before every race by taking them out of the calipers (misleading to look at them from the top inside the calipers) and glanced at when you change wheels at the track.

I have run Carbotechs all the way down to the backing plates by accident, they work so good all the way until there is nothing left! But of course this was not a good thing, so they should be checked very frequently.

To be safe I'd agree with Richard by saying 1/8"

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John Adamczyk

Owner: 5X Racing Online Race Shop
Driver: Team 5X Racing #25 Spec Miata
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Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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quote:
Originally posted by John A - 5x Racing:
I have run Carbotechs all the way down to the backing plates by accident, they work so good all the way until there is nothing left! But of course this was not a good thing, so they should be checked very frequently.

I helped a friend change CT pads at the track 2 weekends ago. One inside pad was not only down to the backing plate, the backing plate had turned blue and one side had bent inwards about 45*. Definately overdue for replacement.

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Greg Bush Verified Driver
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I go until the groove is gone. If its close and I'm going to run a double, then I change them.

I don't like doing brakes in the middle of a weekend. It just adds another variable that can go wrong.

D.B. Cutler Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Past the steel backing plate and half way through the piston.

Gatoratty Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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My Hawk DTC's had worn down to the backing plate and I still had plenty of braking. Most drivers told me that they change them when the grooves are gone.....not when the edges are starting to crumble.

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Paul McLester

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When the rotor cracks!

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B Wilson Verified Driver Series Champ
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Just goes to prove that SM owners are the cheapest SOBs in racing [rolling on floor laughin]

With the pre-beddeded Carbotechs we can now run them down to 1/8 and throw a new set on for the next sesssion. No fuss and saves $$s

-b

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Bruce Wilson
2010 Oregon Region Champ
2010 Monte Shelton Driver of the Year
2010 25 Hours of Thunderhill E3 and Under 2 liter Overall Champion
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G. Davis Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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quote:
Originally posted by B Wilson:
Just goes to prove that SM owners are the cheapest SOBs in racing [rolling on floor laughin]

With the pre-beddeded Carbotechs we can now run them down to 1/8 and throw a new set on for the next sesssion. No fuss and saves $$s

-b

pre-bedded? by you or bought that way?

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Glenn Davis

B Wilson Verified Driver Series Champ
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Yes, that is the word. I haven't had a chance to try yet (will this coming weekend), but folks I trust say it works.

-b

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Bruce Wilson
2010 Oregon Region Champ
2010 Monte Shelton Driver of the Year
2010 25 Hours of Thunderhill E3 and Under 2 liter Overall Champion
Oregon Region SM Class Advisor

NASA Florida
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Just like dancing, I thought it usually took two. Like in bedding pads to rotors?

Niklas Falk
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quote:
Originally posted by NASA Florida:
Just like dancing, I thought it usually took two. Like in bedding pads to rotors?

Change from one bedded pad to another bedded pad will not make a difference to the rotor. The material mix is already on the rotor.

Whats the preminum for buying pre-bedded (not allways that easy to find time to do it)?

And for the question, I change when I have too, just before metal to metal (hopefully). CTs really work even when wafer thin [Smile]

B Wilson Verified Driver Series Champ
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quote:
Originally posted by Niklas Falk:
quote:
Originally posted by NASA Florida:
Just like dancing, I thought it usually took two. Like in bedding pads to rotors?

Change from one bedded pad to another bedded pad will not make a difference to the rotor. The material mix is already on the rotor.

Whats the preminum for buying pre-bedded (not allways that easy to find time to do it)?

And for the question, I change when I have too, just before metal to metal (hopefully). CTs really work even when wafer thin [Smile]

Exactly, but whatever you do, never change compound on a used/bedded rotor. From experience, I know it doesn't work!

-b

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Bruce Wilson
2010 Oregon Region Champ
2010 Monte Shelton Driver of the Year
2010 25 Hours of Thunderhill E3 and Under 2 liter Overall Champion
Oregon Region SM Class Advisor

Tom's Double O Verified Driver
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Why pre-bedded pads???

Bedding pads to a new rotor is required so I could see buying pre-bedded rotors to the compound you are using(save running up and down public roads or wasting valuable track time). But if the rotor is already bedded with the same pad compound, isn't bedding brake pads more for making sure the surfaces are mated properly? And if so how does the retailer make sure the pads they send you are properly mating to your rotors? Not sure I truly see the value of pre-bedded pads, but I'm open to learning.

Tom

Ken SM-94 Verified Driver
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With the pre-bedded CT pads you can literally start a race with a brand new set without worry. Not something you would want to do with standard pads.

Turns out that bedding new pads to rotors has more to do with putting a heat cycle on them than mating the surfaces. I think the pre beds are simply heat cycled.

I haven't tried them either, but someone I trust has with good success.

Tom's Double O Verified Driver
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I agree I wouldn't want to race on brand 'new' set of pads. I always try to swap them out before a practice session. Anyway, what do I know? I'm one of those that run Hawk Blues.

I assume heat cycling must have something to do with curing the brake compound.

G. Davis Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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quote:
Originally posted by Ken SM-94:
With the pre-bedded CT pads you can literally start a race with a brand new set without worry. Not something you would want to do with standard pads.

Turns out that bedding new pads to rotors has more to do with putting a heat cycle on them than mating the surfaces. I think the pre beds are simply heat cycled.

I haven't tried them either, but someone I trust has with good success.

Where can you get them? It would be worth trying a set for sure.

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Glenn Davis

Ken SM-94 Verified Driver
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Miatacage.com

G. Davis Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Thanks. I've been getting my CT's from Saferacer and have not seen anything on the prebedding...

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Glenn Davis

CP Verified Driver
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I've never had a problem running 100% on brand new Blues. Just did it this weekend with no ill effects.

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-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing & Speed Shack - New England's Premier Auto Accessory Store
Rt1 AutoMile - Norwood, MA
http://www.speedshackonline.com

Brian Ghidinelli Verified Driver
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I prefer to bed in the Blues once - Tommy and I were talking about this last weekend but sparks usually shoot out of the wheels when I bed in my brakes (try it at night sometime!) and that seems like something best done under controlled conditions rather than in a race.

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Jeff Longo Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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quote:
Originally posted by CP:
I've never had a problem running 100% on brand new Blues. Just did it this weekend with no ill effects.

Thats because you did not use the brakes!!!

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LTD Racing
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Jeff Wasilko
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quote:
Originally posted by G. Davis:
quote:
Originally posted by Ken SM-94:
With the pre-bedded CT pads you can literally start a race with a brand new set without worry. Not something you would want to do with standard pads.

Where can you get them? It would be worth trying a set for sure.
The Carbotechs that Mazdaspeed are carrying are pre-bedded as well.

John A - 5X Racing Verified Driver
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Pre-Bedded Carbotechs are a $20 per set upgrade on our site. That should be the going rate anywhere that offers the option (let me know if it isn't).
It sure is nice not having to waste a session bedding in pads properly, especially when your first session is also qualifying like it normally is here in the SE SCCA. Plus, knowing that they are bedded in correctly ensures longevity according to Carbotech.

Personal choice of course, convenience costs $$$!

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John Adamczyk

Owner: 5X Racing Online Race Shop
Driver: Team 5X Racing #25 Spec Miata
NASA FL Race Director
Race Engineering Powered 1.6

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Not sure why but I've been warned that the pre-bedded CT pads smell awful for a little bit so don't be concerned if you put a set on and you notice that. Apparently it's normal.

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

   

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