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Author Topic: Spot the diff
Andy Robottom Verified Driver
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Region: NW
Car #: 113
Year : 1990
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I am looking at buying this diff tomorrow, http://zachwiens.blogspot.com/

Told its a torsen limited slip.

Question is...is it? I have nothing to compare it too, and the diff spotting guide http://www.miata.net/garage/diffguide/index.html

leads me to think its a VLSD not a Torsen LSD.

Does anyone have a educated opinion?

Thanks

Andy

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....drive your own line

Willie the Tard Verified Driver
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Year : 92
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I it is a 1.8 for sure and the 1.8 never had the VLSD. the guide only show one pic of the typeII torsen (a shot on the axle hole). me guess is that is what you are looking at.

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William Keeling a.k.a. Willie the Tard

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
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Andy. Take a good look through the holes in the carrier to see if you see the helical gears. That's how Greg ID'd mine as a torson. It looks a lot like that but seeing the actual gears is the real proof.

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Andy Robottom Verified Driver
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Car #: 113
Year : 1990
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No carier, no axles, just the diff. But I have a spare carrier.

Andy

--------------------
....drive your own line

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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What I mean by the carrier is actually the steel housing that encloses the gears themselves and is surrounded by the ring gear, not the big aluminum part. It's a fine point of diff terminology if I have that right. I can see the carrier in the pics and the holes to peer through and eyeball the gears. [Wink]

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Andy Robottom Verified Driver
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Car #: 113
Year : 1990
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My mistake, now you see why I need the help....

--------------------
....drive your own line

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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My understanding is when you look through the axle holes, if you see a big shaft sticking through the middle, it's an open. Some NBs came with a different diff alltogether that has great big springs visible and doesn't look anything like that.

Peering through the holes in the carrier (the big cylindrical part) what you're looking for is those gears shown in photo 2 of the spotters guide that are cylindrical and have the teeth going diaganally like the stripes on a barber pole.

I'm almost positive it's a T2 torson though

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Steven Holloway Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Andy,
the part you're looking to buy is called the pumpkin.
Don't ask me why.

--------------------
If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's got electrical problems.

Andy Robottom Verified Driver
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Region: NW
Car #: 113
Year : 1990
Posts: 145
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More diff pics. I'm fairly confident that this is a Torsen Type II. Am I wrong?

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=258332&id=696407437&l=8ed8be8c69

Thanks

Andy

--------------------
....drive your own line

TillerTech
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Car #: na
Year : 89
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not wrong, Type 2

John

--------------------
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Andy Robottom Verified Driver
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Region: NW
Car #: 113
Year : 1990
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Excellent! Thanks one and all for the help. Much appreciated. I think I got a good deal on this, Hoping so....

Next question(s).

To install this I know I need to change out the axles, I'm assuming the hubs too? What year? Anything else I need to find for the swap?

It's going in a 1990.

Thanks again

Andy

--------------------
....drive your own line

Ron Alan Made Donation to Website
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This is a rookie question. Is this unit a 99+ or a 94-97? If the later can you run a 4.1 in a 90 car?

--------------------
-RA


"Happy birthday, I didn't get you a present...Oh, mom got you one? Well, that's from me then too, unless it's shitty."
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Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Andy, you'll need the axles, and the drive shaft. The hubs you have on the car will work fine (provided they worked fine before.) I'd change the seals on the aluminum housing, and the spring clips on the axles while you're at it.

Ron, It's a 99+ The earlier ones are really easy to spot. There's a big gaping hole where you can see the internal gears.

The 90-93 Miatas may convert to the 94-05 differential assembly and must retain the 4.3 differential gear ratio from the 99-05 model years.

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Johnny D Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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quote:
Originally posted by Ron Alan:
This is a rookie question. Is this unit a 99+ or a 94-97? If the later can you run a 4.1 in a 90 car?

I believe in the specs above 94-97 are suppose to run 4.1 but note on right says you can use 4.3 .
J~

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Andy Robottom Verified Driver
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Year : 1990
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This is such a dumb question, but for the sake of clarity; I need 99+ axles and drive shaft, but the NA 1.6 rear hubs will work?

Given that it's a 99+ then it has the SM legal 4.3 rear?

Thanks again

Andy

--------------------
....drive your own line

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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You can use any 94+ axles and driveshaft and the 1.6 hubs don't care which axle it is 90+.

The 99+ diff did come with the 4.3 although the automatics I think came with a 3.9. The sure fire way to tell is count the ring gear teeth and divide by the pinion teeth.

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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quote:
Originally posted by Johnny D:
quote:
Originally posted by Ron Alan:
This is a rookie question. Is this unit a 99+ or a 94-97? If the later can you run a 4.1 in a 90 car?

I believe in the specs above 94-97 are suppose to run 4.1 but note on right says you can use 4.3 .
J~

Starting this year, ALL cars must use a 4.3.

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

Johnny D Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Drago has the kit in the classifieds if that's easier.

http://classifieds.specmiata.com/detail.php?id=2867

J~

--------------------
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Ron Alan Made Donation to Website
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quote:
Originally posted by Keith in WA:
quote:
Originally posted by Johnny D:
quote:
Originally posted by Ron Alan:
This is a rookie question. Is this unit a 99+ or a 94-97? If the later can you run a 4.1 in a 90 car?

I believe in the specs above 94-97 are suppose to run 4.1 but note on right says you can use 4.3 .
J~

Starting this year, ALL cars must use a 4.3.
We have a 95 with original 4.1 Torsen. Are you saying Keith we have to go to the 4.3 ratio or is it now just an option if we want to?

--------------------
-RA


"Happy birthday, I didn't get you a present...Oh, mom got you one? Well, that's from me then too, unless it's shitty."
9:52 AM Sep 14th, 2009 via web
http://twitter.com/shitmydadsays

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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No, I think it was around July/Aug that it became optional per Fastrack, but it goes to mandatory at the beginning of the year.

Others correct me if I'm wrong here.

--------------------
Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

TillerTech
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Just a question, if all cars go to 4.3 gears does this open up the diff to use a T1 Torsen in any car?

J

--------------------
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Spence Gatrell
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Dont forget to get new rear nuts.

The 1.8 outer has the same spline count and size but the shaft uses a larger nut than the 1.6 does.

--------------------
When in doubt.. Stand on it!

davew Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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This has been discussed before, but why not do it again.

To convert a 1.6 to the larger 1.8 diff and Torsen differential, you will need the pig/pumkin assembly (as pictured in the first post above. 2 axle shaft assemblies. 1.6 and 1.8 have different lengths and inner spline diameter (94-95 axles where a 2 piece design like a 1.6, while 95+ is a one piece assembly. They are intechangeable). The drive shaft for a 1.6 is longer than a 1.8 and uses a differant bolt pattern in the rear, so you need any year 1.8 driveshaft. The alluminum housing must also be used from any year 1.8.

Rear hubs are the same. The subframe mounts are the same.

The easiest way to do a 1.6-1.8 conversion is to buy a kit from one of the usuall used suppliers.

To change a 4.10 to a 4.3 torsen in a 94-97 car, the easiest way is to but a 4.3 torsen pig and just swap out. If you have a 4.1 open, this is the only logical/cost effective method.

If you have a 4.10 torsen, you can look for a 4.3 open and just swap the torsen unit. This does require some special tools and knowledge.

Which version of the 1.8 torsen really makes no difference. Put in what you can find in good condition at a reasonable price.

Dave

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David Luney Verified Driver
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Region: ATL
Car #: 29-Killed
Year : 1990
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The diff in the picture is not a 99+ it is a T1 Torsen. Unless it has been swapped it is a 4.1.

   

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