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Author Topic: Rear Caliper Adjuster Disabling FAQs
Dwayne Hoover Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
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Have received some of these questions multiple times, but do not have emails for many of you that I already did calipers for. I will try to add these to the classifieds ad, but it might be too large.

IMPORTANT: You need to "burp" trapped air out of the upper boot when you slide the caliper onto the bracket pin, or you might get a deep pedal until you eventually brake hard enough that it burps itself. This has nothing to do with the adjuster removal. Just pucker the boot between your fingers to let air escape when you slide the caliper over the bracket pin. You should be able to bottom the caliper by hand and not have it spring back.

ALSO IMPORTANT: The park brake actuator lever on the caliper - DO NOT REMOVE THIS. There is a seal under the lever that needs to remain in place.

1. Grease? Most of you appear to not be using near enough grease. If I did your calipers, I put green Permatex 24110 in the pin boots and yellow NAPA Sil-Glyde under the piston dust boot.

2. Fluid? This is a touchy subject. I have never seen brake fluid "boil" in a Spec Miata, and thus I believe there is no performance advantage to using "highest boiling point possible" brake fluids.

3. Bleeding? Vacuum bleeders and power bleeders don't work very well on the Miata system. The two-person method is still the best. Remember that the LR caliper is the furthest away from the master cylinder, so you want to bleed in the following order: LR, RR, RF, LF.

4. Hardware? You definitely want to run the stainless "clips" for the pads to slide on. If they are "dimpled" from where the pad slams into it every time you hit the pedal, then replace the clips. You can RTV the clips into place on the calipers with copper Hi-Temp RTV. If your pads don't slide nicely in the clips, file the backing plates until they do.

5. Best cores? The best cores I've seen so far were reportedly from AutoZone. The Mazda-sourced units are reportedly from A1 Cardone and have improved from prior years. The worst cores I've seen are of unknown manufacture, but appear to be "sandblasted" until none of the original shiny plating is left on the caliper casting, adjuster cover bolt, etc. I would avoid buying any calipers that have this uniformly "dull gray" appearance.

Email: dragfreecalipers@gmail.com

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