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Author Topic: Torsen Install help..
W. Bonsell
Member

Region: NWR/Oregon
Car #: #26
Year : 1991
Posts: 334
Status: Offline
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Am finally going to replace the VLSD on my '91. Have a torsen on order. Does anyone know where to find complete instructions on making the big change over?

Thanks...

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William Bonsell
SCCA/ICSCC #26
SM/ITA

George Munson Verified Driver
Member

Region: 83
Car #: 127
Year : 90
Posts: 284
Status: Offline
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It's pretty straight forward. Unbolt wheels and pull axle nuts. Unbolt the old axles from the old diff. Remove the diff support arm and drive shaft. You will probably need a puller to push the axle from the hubs. Drop the old diff and start installing the new stuff.

jwarren Verified Driver
Member

Region: NNJ
Car #: 51
Year : 1991
Posts: 161
Status: Offline
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super easy install! It took me about 45 minutes from start to finish with an impact.


one thing that will help you:

When you are unbolting the diff. from the power pant frame, loosen the two bolts until they are finger tight, then whack one of them (can't remember which one) with a hammer to remove the 'splined' portion that actually fits into the differential. i'm sure you have no clue what i'm talking about but as SOON as you realize the PPF won't come off of the diff you'll know what i mean. Take a look at an exploded diagram of the rear diff and powerplant frame on mazdamotorsports before you do it so you know all of the little pieces that are there.

I hope this helped.

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Ridgespeed Racing

#51 J. Andrew Warren

http://www.ridgespeedracing.com

David Luney Verified Driver
Member

Region: ATL
Car #: 29-Killed
Year : 1990
Posts: 193
Status: Offline
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The following is for the Torsen replacement. You would add the axle swap out for an early car.
1. Remove the subframe brace
2. Remove the exhaust pipe.
3. Remove the 4 driveshaft bolts and driveshaft.
4. Unbolt the LR caliper and safety wire it up and out of the way.
5. On the drivers side only, remove the outer upper and lower upright bolts and remove the upright as an assembly by prying the axle from the diff. If you have a baggie, cover the diff side of the axle to keep it clean.
6.If you have a shipping plug from the new diff plug the open axle hole (not required if you drained the old diff).
7. Loosen the PPF bolts almost all the way out. Smack with a BFBH (Brass) and remove the upper press in fastners then the bolts.
8. I use a flat chisel to remove the centering insert on the underside of the rear PPF bolt.
9. The PPF should be free, pry it to the passenger side and safety wire or bungee it out of the way.
10. Remove the 4 12mm nuts holding the diff mount retainer.
11. Support the diff with a floor jack rolled in from the drivers side.
12. Remove the 2 17mm nuts freeing the diff.
13. Pop the passenger side axle out of the diff.
14. Bring the diff down and to the drivers side, sliding the axle out as you go.

Installation is reverse of removal. I pre-fill the new diff on the bench and use the afore mentioned plugs to avoid a 90wt bath during the install.

Glenn Verified Driver
Member

Region: CCR
Posts: 581
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I like the idea of only removing one side UCA.

Also add DO NOT OVER EXTEND the CV joints or you will be repair/replacing them. Don't ask how I know, LOL

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Glenn
Crew chief Meathead Racing, NE Region Sales Division Race Engineering, The GOLD standard in SM engines, Occasional race slave for OPM Autosports

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
Posts: 2000
Status: Offline
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Good list David...I do think you forgot one step that will keep you from smelling like trans fluid for a week though. [Wink]

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

SCCA_Racer
Member

Region: 33 SFR
Year : 1991
Posts: 167
Status: Offline
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The axle can be a PITA to remove from the hub unless you bought replacement hubs with the Torsen.
After I removed the diff I reinstalled the uprights and had to use a torch (for heat) and a 4' breaker bar on the axle nut. That was after letting the axle nuts soak over night with penetrating oil. I thought I was home free once I got the axle nut off, but that was not the case. I ended up threading the axle nut back on and using a sledgehammer to drive the axles out. In the end it flatten the axle nut, but they cam out. I still have not decided if I am going to install new uprights with new bearings or try running these after all the abuse I put them through to get everything apart. God luck with your swap.

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Joshua Fine
SCCA member 323214 since 2003
Novice Permit in 2010
Racing 2011

Vick Verified Driver
Do they sell spec training wheels?

Region: NYR
Car #: 12
Year : 1991
Posts: 620
Status: Offline
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I think there is a step by step with pictures on miata.net

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http://www.volko.com

Glenn Verified Driver
Member

Region: CCR
Posts: 581
Status: Offline
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quote:
I ended up threading the axle nut back on and using a sledgehammer to drive the axles out
typical problem with rust belt cars! I have cars all the time that the lower control arm bolt id frozen to the arm and will NOT move. If you come up with a good reliably method of removal please post!

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Glenn
Crew chief Meathead Racing, NE Region Sales Division Race Engineering, The GOLD standard in SM engines, Occasional race slave for OPM Autosports

   

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