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Author Topic: New front hubs and bearings vs repacking old..
W. Bonsell
Member

Region: NWR/Oregon
Car #: #26
Year : 1991
Posts: 334
Status: Offline
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Several SM.com vendors offer new front hubs and bearings. Is there a reason one would want to purchase new vs just cleaning and repacking existing bearings? As far as I know, existing hubs are original but seem to spin pretty well.

And is there a way to visually determine if existing bearings should be replaced with new? Damaged balls, etc....Are the bearings from Mazdaspeed worth the extra money if buying new?

Also, does anyone have any history with Centric or Beck/Aenley brake components available through Rockauto?

Looking to do a few projects over the winter to keep busy, but don't want to spend money if I don't have too.

Lots of small questions I know...sorry! But could use a little guidance in how best to proceed.

Oh, yeah...one other little item. Without NASCAR syled door bars, what modification is allowed regarding the door and window mechanisms. GCR's seem a bit unclear to me...

Thought I'd just hammer all this out in one big inquiring post! Overwhelm me please with opinions (other than my driving style from those that might know me). And I really am sorry about that start, Keith...big F#@K UP on my part. Glad nothing happened...it's been haunting me for spell especially since it's on vimeo.

Bill

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William Bonsell
SCCA/ICSCC #26
SM/ITA

Keith in WA Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Pack Fodder

Region: NWR / Oregon
Car #: 88
Year : 95
Posts: 2000
Status: Offline
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Bill,

I bought a new set of hubs from Mazda, repacked them, and they spun much better than new or old bearings that felt fine. Repacked my OEM ones for spares. They're nice too. Packing them is easy. Unpacking can be a pain.

It's hard to tell anything just spinning them anyway. They're not hot, they're not loaded, etc. If you can feel a problem, they're shot, and they can be shot well before you ever feel it. It does rain here so it's wise to keep the fronts serviced.

The races should look pristine. If you see anything that looks like little tiny cracks in the races, discard them. If you see what looks like a groove where the bearings have run, discard them. If the balls look damaged, you'll definately see damaged races.

For the rears, I bought the bearings from Mazda and had a machine shop do the press work. Convinient time to do long studs and remove the dust shield at the same time.

I've used a lot of Timken and Beck/Arnley parts. Often they're the exact same ones as the manufacturers. Manufacturers don't usually single source most parts. I wouldn't go with the cheapest part you can find from a no-name brand. I will never buy a seal, gasket, or o-ring except from Mazda again. For some of those little parts that are likely to be removed for some reason, when I make an order to Mazdaspeed, I buy 4. They're cheaper than shipping for one or driving to the store for an emergency part.

Don't worry about the start. You had a lot of heads on a swivel trying to figure out what was going on but nothing came of it and we all gotta learn somehow. [Wink]

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Keith Novak
(Will work for tires)

PedalFaster Verified Driver
Member

Region: Northwest
Car #: 86
Year : 1995
Posts: 372
Status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Keith in WA:
You had a lot of heads on a swivel trying to figure out what was going on

Now I'm curious -- URL? [Smile]

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Stephen Hui - '95 SM #86, Northwest / Oregon Region SCCA

W. Bonsell
Member

Region: NWR/Oregon
Car #: #26
Year : 1991
Posts: 334
Status: Offline
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Steve...

I don't want to hijack my own thread, but let's just say in a huge grid at Pacific I thought I HEARD the greenflag since I couldn't see 1/4 mi ahead and took off spitting about two rows of cars before noticing that no one else was hammering the throttle....as Keith says, a lesson learned.

NOW ABOUT THE MATTER OF MY POST...any thoughts Steve...

Bill

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William Bonsell
SCCA/ICSCC #26
SM/ITA

PedalFaster Verified Driver
Member

Region: Northwest
Car #: 86
Year : 1995
Posts: 372
Status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by W. Bonsell:
NOW ABOUT THE MATTER OF MY POST...any thoughts Steve...

I'm far from an expert, so I'm probably the wrong guy to ask. [Smile] Having said that, if your cage has NASCAR-style side bars (most do these days), you can rip out everything listed in section 9.4.D of the GCR:

quote:
door window glass, window operating mechanism, inner door trim panel, armrest, map pockets, and inside door latch/lock operating mechanism
Agreed that the rule's wording is a bit ambiguously worded, making it hard to tell what's allowed if you don't have NASCAR door bars, so I'll defer to the experts on that (or recommend that you get NASCAR door bars, since gutting the doors saves you a significant amount of weight).

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Stephen Hui - '95 SM #86, Northwest / Oregon Region SCCA

davew Verified Driver Made Donation to Website
Veteran Member

Region: chicago
Car #: 72 and ?
Year : 90 and 90
Posts: 1051
Status: Offline
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Beck Arnley is a long time, import car parts company. Although I do not think they actually manufactur anything. I think all they do is rebox someone elses product. Generally no problems

I have no experience with the Centric parts, I am a Brembo kinda guy.

I tried the Timken rear wheel bearings when Mazda was on back order. Stay away from them. Replaced virtually every Timken with a Mazda within a couple of weekends.

Door bars are pretty simple. You can gut the door only if the door bars intrude into the door cavity. Otherwise the glass, regulator etc must remain in place. The exception is if your door bars interfere with closing the door, you may trim the door handle for clearance. But unless the bars go past the sheet metal, you must leave all the guts in place to be compliant.

I have compared a double straight door bar with a stock door to a Nascar style door bar with a gutted door. Weight savings is 20+ pounds per door.

Dave

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Advanced Autosports, The Midwests leader in Spec Miata Service, Parts and Rentals
608-313-1230
Authorised Spec Miata service center
www.advanced-autosports.com

tom_hampton
Member

Region: SW
Year : 1992
Posts: 51
Status: Offline
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I did not get that much weight out of my doors...more like 17 directly removed from my 92.

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Tom Hampton
Miata build: http://www.tomhampton.info

Howard
Member

Region: NORTHEAST
Car #: 66
SMIM: SM
Posts: 40
Status: Offline
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Just an observation. I replaced my front hubs with Timken units before the season. One had the new style grease seal and one the old style. Both with the same part number. After a weekend in the rain I pulled them to replace the grease. The one with the old style seal showed clear water contamination of the grease while the one with the new style seal did not. It seems to me that the grease seal is the weak link (along with the ball bearings). No problems after 7 race weekends and a track day with 3 full hours of track time.

Howard

   

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