Car #: 72 and ?
Year : 90 and 90 Posts: 1051
I'll start at the bottom and work up.
4) The converted power has a noticably quicker ratio than the manual.
3) YES. Converting it costs nothing if you loop the hoses. $15 for the plugs (available from somebody on this site) makes a cleaner look.
2) Remove the pump, resevoir, brackets, pressure line, return line and the cooler line. Do not remove the 2 small lines that run parrelel to the rack.
1) Yes, remove the parts above, turn steering wheel lock to lock several times to remove excess fluid. Install plugs. Forget about it.
My apology to people who sell the following service ahead of time, this is my oppinion
Do not "gut" the steering rack. I have seen 3 of these racks fail. All 3 had the same symptoms. A weird feeling on turn in and a clunk felt in the steering wheel. Turned out the rack (internal rack gear) bushing was allowing the rack to flex and then snapping back into position.
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Region: Ohio Valley Region
Car #: 35
Year : 1999 Posts: 170
I did just as suggested above, removed all the pump and hoses. I removed the two hoses from the pump going into the rack, turned the steering wheel lock to lock about 10 times to pump out extra fluid. It leaves just enough to lube the rack, it worked fine for me and way less work than replacing with a manual rack. I used the Advanced Auto Sport plugs.